My latest magazine piece explores the dairy industry’s logistics, life on small farms, and the undersides of cows.

It begins:

At 3:45 a.m., Folgers coffee poured, I headed south from Sheboygan, Wis., to Joosse’s Trucking in Oostburg. There I was confronted by two rows of scowling milk trucks — their double-walled cylinders certain to inspire a Pavlovian response in Diet Coke drinkers. I met Scott, a retired Kohler engineer now pulling 16-hour shifts as a driver. He’d later explain, “God made me to work,” and work he did. The cows don’t take days off, so neither do the drivers — in rain, in snow, or on Packer game days.

You can read the rest here.

Here are a few bonus images from the coverage: