Cinco de Mayo is upon us — an excuse for every American to enjoy some fine Mexican cuisine. Tacos, nachos, and burritos are sure to grace many school lunches, office gatherings, and dinner tables today.
Mexican food has, of course, become a staple of American dining. According to TacoTuesday.com — “the largest taco search engine” on the web — Americans consume 4.5 billion tacos annually. (I can happily say I’ve made a significant contribution to that number.)
Growing up, Mexican food appeared regularly on my family’s dinner table — at least, what Minnesotans take to be Mexican food. Midwestern tacos, enchiladas, and loaded nachos were staples of the fortnightly meal rotation. Although “Midwest-Mex” might not be “authentic” Mexican food, it is authentically American — a sacred blend of different cultures and locally-sourced ingredients to produce delicacies that even kings and princes could not have imagined.
As the title suggests, lipidic, creamy condiments are a crucial ingredient in nearly every dish. Guacamole is made with mayonnaise. Tacos are one part sour cream and one part everything else. Mexican lasagna (yes, it’s a thing) calls for one pound of Wisconsin shredded cheese and a dollop of sour cream to top it off.
A classic Midwestern “taco” begins with a flour tortilla the size of a dinner plate. The chef then proceeds to fill it with ground beef — beef that has been browned with generic taco seasoning from the clear plastic jug above the stove. Beans (refried or whole) are popped into the microwave, then right into the flour shell. Some orange-colored shredded cheese is added, then sliced black olives straight from the can. If the curator is feeling adventurous, medium salsa may be added instead of mild. And, of course, one cannot forget the sour cream. Then, with the expertise of a craftsman, the tortilla is folded around the contents like a onesie around a warm baby. Exquisite.
If you have never encountered “Midwest-Mex,” I am sorry for your loss. While it might not be “authentic,” it is a tradition unto itself.