Christine Nagel, Hermès nez ("nose," referring to a perfume creator) since 2016, is a key figure in the world of perfumery. She is constantly inventing new fragrances. Recent examples include Paddock, Oud Alezan and H24 Herbes Vives. And there's a line she often hears: "My perfume doesn't smell like it used to." This complaint may come as a surprise. The bottle hasn't changed, and neither has the name. But the contents? Well, yes. Over time, the smell of even the most famous perfumes evolves. This is neither a figment of the imagination, nor the effect of a Covid-19-induced olfactory disorder, nor the result of any chemical reaction. Fragrances change because brands change the recipe without letting people know. And the people who wear them are perfectly aware of this. "The nose of a customer who has worn Bel Ami for 20 years is sharper than mine when it comes to this eau de toilette," said the director of creation and olfactory heritage at Hermès Parfums.

But why modify a perfume? Why transform a scent that has stood the test of time, imbuing our imaginations and intimate memories? Simply because there's no choice. Some elements are toxic. Such is the case with Lilial, a molecule beloved for its floral notes reminiscent of lily of the valley, suspected of being an endocrine disruptor and therefore banned since March 1, 2022. Fortunately, Lilial has found a faithful substitute in Nympheal, a biodegradable molecule that required no less than four years of research in the laboratories of Swiss fragrance and flavor manufacturer Givaudan. German competitor Symrise also used its ingenuity to develop Lilybelle, a molecule derived from green chemistry that also evokes the delicate scent of the little white bell-shaped flower.

"It is primarily to protect the consumer that the composition of a perfume is regularly modified, and not to save money by replacing precious materials with cheap synthetic molecules, as some might believe," explained Thierry Audibert, board member of the International Society of Perfume Creators (ISPC). This precautionary principle is promoted by the International Fragrance Association (IFRA), a self-regulatory body of the perfume industry, which publishes an annual list of ingredients whose use is prohibited or restricted due to their presumed toxicity. The European Commission uses this list to decide on the fate of allergenic substances.

Eliminate animal-based ingredients

Unfortunately, substitutes are not always available. Beyond legislative constraints, a brand may also decide to reformulate its product due to the unavailability of certain raw materials: This was the case in the 2000s with Indian sandalwood, which suffered from overexploitation and is now protected. As a result, many fragrances on the market have been reformulated with sandalwood from New Caledonia, which has the same essence and is therefore relatively close in olfactory terms.

You have 77.47% of this article left to read. The rest is for subscribers only.