Michelin celebrated the launch of its 50th Great Britain and Ireland guide on Monday, February 5, at 7 pm GMT. And for the first time in its history, the ceremony took place not in London, but in Manchester, in the Midland Hotel, a neo-Gothic red-brick building inaugurated in 1903. Its magnificence seems to attract French companies – in December 2023, the Midland served as a base camp for Chanel teams, who organized the brand's "métiers d'art" fashion show in Manchester.
For Michelin, launching the guide in Manchester was no accident either. The aim was to underline the fact that British gastronomy is not confined to the capital – a similar approach to that taken in France where the guide has not been launched in Paris since 2022. "Great Britain is no longer the poor relation of European gastronomy, there is no longer a culinary desert," rejoiced one local inspector who worked on the development of the guide (and who must always remain anonymous).
This year, only one restaurant in a crowded field managed to win the top three-star award. This was the Ledbury in London's Notting Hill district. Recognized as a local gastronomic landmark since its opening in 2005, the restaurant had to close for two years at the time of Covid-19, when it lost its two stars. At the time, Australian chef Brett Graham expressed doubts about his ability to reopen, but he eventually resumed business in early 2022. "The health crisis hit restaurants very hard, and there were a lot of bankruptcies, but we're seeing a new dynamism, with 150 new restaurants in the guide this year," commented the inspector.
While the Ledbury has the classic profile of a Michelin three-star establishment (modern, individualized cuisine based on exceptional local produce), there were more unexpected accolades awarded in the two-star group. Among the six new award-winning restaurants, two were Indian: Gymkhana in London and Opheem in Birmingham. "This is a historic moment for British gastronomy," said the inspector. "Until now, this type of cuisine has always been quite popular. The two restaurants voted for are not only exceptional, but in very different genres."
In the Mayfair district, Gymkhana offers a setting reminiscent of the clubs of colonial India. Chef Karam Sethi offers perfectly executed North Indian cuisine, based on dishes such as chicken tikka masala, lamb rogan josh and vegetable biryani.
In Birmingham, Opheem is run by Aktar Islam, who was born and raised in this large Midlands city. His dishes are based on Indian recipes, which he modernizes through a 10-step tasting menu, ranging from a scallop with apple to more street food-inspired dishes such as potato with achari and tamarind spices.
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