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Le Monde
Le Monde
20 Apr 2025


Images Le Monde.fr
Aliocha Boi for Le Monde

The story of a street: Rue Visconti, from Balzac's printing house to Christo's iron curtain

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Published today at 5:52 pm (Paris)

5 min read Lire en français

There are narrow and short streets, like Rue Visconti, that carry within them a long epic. On the Left Bank, in the heart of the 6th arrondissement of Paris, this little "corridor," originally named "Rue des Marais," tells a large part of the history of the Saint-Germain-des-Prés neighborhood. Since 1864, the street has borne the name of Louis Visconti (1791-1853), the architect of Emperor Napoleon I's tomb at Les Invalides.

Let's take the road in reverse, venturing from the intersection with Rue Bonaparte. Starting in this direction, the first section of Rue Visconti is windowless, with hardly any openings on the thick, yellowish façades of old Paris. No shop or restaurant has dared to set up here, whereas upscale clothing and décor brands abound in the neighboring streets, Rue Jacob or Rue de Seine.

The street's counter-rhythm is immediately striking: little to no traffic, almost giving the disconcerting sensation of being the first to find this silent and austere insider's shortcut in the bustling Saint-Germain-des-Prés. The narrowness of the opening keeps the sun from entering, condemning the alleyway to perpetual shadow.

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