The two volunteers put up a makeshift parasol and set a cooler at their feet under the scorching sun. A nearby sign bearing a Polish flag read "No immigration." This was the scene at the border between Germany and Poland, along the banks of the Oder River. The bridge, linking the German city of Frankfurt an der Oder with Slubice on the Polish side, was once a site of celebration for European expansion. Political leaders posed for photographs here to mark Europe's growth towards the east. However, it has now become a symbol for those who oppose that vision.

On this Friday, July 4, the dozens of European Union flags along the metal walkway fluttered as if in defiance of what was happening on both banks. The two volunteers stationed on the Polish side of the bridge's entrance were with Ruch Obrony Granic (Movement for the Defense of Borders), a nationalist group founded by activist Robert Bakiewicz. They had been collecting signatures for a referendum "against the mandatory acceptance of illegal migrants" there since the presidential election on June 1, which brought victory for nationalist conservative Karol Nawrocki.

"Germany is sending illegal migrants back to Poland even though it has no right to do so," explained Camilla, a baby-faced Polish student wearing a Virgin Mary medal around her neck. "Germany doesn't want these migrants, because they don't work. And our government helps them. There are videos on the internet." Their small stand drew reactions from locals. "They're always here, and they seem harmless, but as soon as the cameras are gone, they stir up panic," fumed Beate, who runs a small tobacco shop near the stand. "They stop people on the bridge and check them! They'd check me, too, if I didn't work next door," she said with exasperation, pointing to her dark hair. "They drive me crazy!"

You have 75.55% of this article left to read. The rest is for subscribers only.