Letter from Beijing

Wearing a bright pink one-piece swimsuit and a yellow swimming cap, Mo Lihong climbed over the barrier and – under the admiring gazes of her fellow swimmers – executed a flawless backflip dive into the canal. The retiree then swam a few strokes, enjoying the pleasant late-summer weather. Others tried out rented paddleboards and kayaks, while passersby watched the lively scene with delight.

These fully redeveloped banks of the Liangma River have certainly become one of Beijing's most popular leisure spots. "Before, officials only thought about building new towers and train stations, but they realized we need parks and spaces for recreation. Things are getting better," said Mo, 55, who would go there every day during the warmer season.

Just a decade ago, the canal was mostly known for its pollution and was bordered by stark concrete embankments. The city authorities paid it no heed, being preoccupied with expanding through new tower blocks and additional ring roads, of which Beijing now has five. Apart from its historic center, with its narrow alleys and traditional rooftops clustered around the Forbidden City, Beijing, home to 22 million people, was an ocean of concrete.

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