LETTER FROM MOSCOW

Disproportion, displays of power, Soviet nostalgia... It's the ideal venue in the Russian capital for President Vladimir Putin's purpose. VDNKh park – literally the Exhibition of Achievements of the National Economy – was inaugurated in 1939 to promote the greatness and diversity of the USSR. The huge park, located in the north of the city, remains a favorite spot for Muscovites and tourists alike. They come here to catch a whiff of Soviet spirit, or to buy Belarusian and Kazakh handicrafts.

It is here, between pavilions built in the grand Stalinist architectural style, that the "Russia" exhibition has taken up residence, open to the public from November 4 of this year to April 12, 2024. Its brief clearly sets out its ambitions: "To present the achievements of our country in the most varied fields, to show Russians the true modern Russia, a country of which we can and should be proud."

Sovietism permeates the tour from the visitors' first steps. It opens with the Gallery of Achievements, a long tunnel where the most improbable statistics are displayed on ultra-modern giant screens with a background of techno music: "500 million square meters of housing built... 30,000 kilometers of roads laid out or renovated every day... quality of life improved for 10 million people... 350,000 more containers for sorting waste... 280,000 Russian brands created... the rarest animals saved from extinction... Support for families unrivalled worldwide... 91% of young people are proud of Russia."

"It's all thanks to the state," proclaims a guide leading a group of wide-eyed schoolchildren at a brisk pace. Two retired women have already enthusiastically taken out their smartphones to share this marvel with loved ones: "Look, look how beautiful it is!" Since its launch, the exhibition has boasted 3 million visitors. And, on this Tuesday in December, there are plenty of them – young and old, families and tour groups.

The star attraction is the huge hall featuring stands dedicated to the "89 subjects of the Federation" – 83 of them internationally recognized, to which have been added the territories annexed from Ukraine: Crimea, Sevastopol, Donetsk, Luhansk, Zaporijia and Kherson. This creative approach is rife, with daring architecture based on regional specificities: Altai woods, Khakassia yurts, Kamchatka ice, Pskov medieval fortresses.

On the Kaliningrad stand, visitors are invited to take a selfie with an animation of Emmanuel Kant. In Novosibirsk, they can ride a virtual snowboard. Elsewhere they can drive a train or take control of a harvester. This miniature Russia is a medley of local crafts, industrial production, tales and legends and folk costumes. Everywhere, interactive screens, virtual reality headsets, sleek designs and glittering colors enhance the experience.

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