In the high-profile market of fashion designers, Fendi was the house where uncertainty lingered the longest. After Kim Jones left his position as artistic director of women's collections on October 11, 2024, many expected an official replacement to be named. But Silvia Venturini Fendi, who had been in charge of menswear and accessories since 1994, took on the position on an interim basis. On September 29, she was appointed "honorary president." Then, on October 14, the brand's owner, LVMH, finally announced Maria Grazia Chiuri's appointment as the Roman house's creative director.
The selection of the 61-year-old Italian designer was not surprising, as her name had been mentioned repeatedly. She has the advantage of knowing Fendi well, having started her career there in 1989 after graduating from the Istituto Europeo di Design, a fashion school in Rome. She worked in the accessories department for 10 years, focusing on handbags and contributing to the creation of the Baguette it bag.
LVMH knew Chiuri well, having entrusted her with the artistic direction of Dior's womenswear lines for nine years. She stepped down from that position on May 29 after a final show in her beloved city of Rome, making way for Jonathan Anderson, who was appointed four days later. The abrupt nature of this transition suggested that Chiuri might not return to work within the group.
Did time allow for reconciliation? Was the designer convinced by Delphine Arnault? Since becoming CEO of Dior in 2023, Arnault has also advised LVMH on artistic director appointments and has consistently praised Chiuri, even after they parted ways in the spring.
The brand was founded by Adele and Edoardo Fendi in the Italian capital in 1925. Their daughters then took over the business, followed by their granddaughters, including Silvia Venturini Fendi. LVMH had international ambitions for the Italian brand when it acquired the family business in 1999. Within the group's portfolio, Fendi is an important fashion brand, though smaller than Dior and therefore not as closely watched by CEO Bernard Arnault.
For a long time, the question of artistic direction did not arise. Silvia Venturini Fendi led the menswear division, and Karl Lagerfeld, recruited by the founders' daughters in 1965, remained loyal to the brand until his death in 2019. The German designer created the double F logo and expanded the company's reputation as a furrier.
Even as criticism of fur use increased in the 2010s, Fendi remained one of the few brands that never ceased using it. Between 2015 and 2017, Lagerfeld staged "haute fourrure" shows – a play on haute couture and the French word for "fur" – in which every outfit was made from the pelts of animals raised for their fur. Silvia Venturini Fendi also used fur, though she recently started using sheepskin, a byproduct of the food industry. Chiuri at Dior has not given up on fur either.
It's easy to imagine how the new creative director's style could blend with Fendi's. The Roman brand is associated with a bourgeois wardrobe that is never ostentatious; one that represents an understated, luxurious form of Italian elegance. At Dior, Chiuri stayed true to the brand's identity by designing a classic, feminine wardrobe that highlights the wearer. She added two personal elements to this foundation: comfortable clothing and a feminist message.
Chiuri's appointment at Fendi seems like a logical choice. It's also a sign of loyalty to its designers by LVMH. But one must question the Italian's ability to bring fresh ideas to the table, considering she worked tirelessly at Dior, designing 10 collections each year. It is reasonable to wonder if she still has energy after such an intense workload. This will become clearer at Milan's next Women's Fashion Week in February 2026, when Chiuri will present her first collection.
"I am grateful to Mr. [Bernard] Arnault for entrusting me with the task of helping to write a new chapter in the history of this extraordinary women-founded company," wrote Chiuri in the press release announcing her appointment. "Maria Grazia Chiuri is one of the greatest creative talents in fashion today, and I am delighted that she has chosen to return to Fendi to continue expressing her creativity within the LVMH group, after sharing her bold vision of fashion," wrote the CEO, who does not always take the time to add a complimentary remark about new hires. A sign of respect and, perhaps, reconciliation.
Translation of an original article published in French on lemonde.fr; the publisher may only be liable for the French version.