There are plenty of good places to eat under the open sky in Paris' suburbs. From Youpi au Théâtre, the marvelous cafeteria installed in the summer under the canopy of the Théâtre de Gennevilliers, to Villa9Trois and its charming tables in Montreuil. In Paris, the streets have become permanently adorned with summer terraces that can bloom on the asphalt from April 1 to October 31 in the wake of Covid. But finding the right combination of a terrace, a quiet street and good food is not always easy.

Here's a selection of highly recommended tables where you can enjoy the sun's embrace while being able to hear what the person sitting next to you is saying.

Fulgurances L'Entrepôt, dining under the plane trees

L'Entrepôt is like a Swiss Army knife. This former printing shop now houses a gallery, a concert hall, an art house cinema and a large restaurant (130 covers) sheltered by an oversized glass roof. In the summer, a terrace protected by plane trees and a partition dotted with emerald-green ceramics is an invitation to indulge in good food and sunbathing. For the past three years, the cheerful team from Fulgurances (three establishments in Paris and one in New York) has taken over the restaurant, and their plates always return to the kitchen empty. At lunchtime, William Cottier creates small miracles (menus start from €21) by focusing on seasonal produce.

The 36-year-old chef has a preference for low-fat fried dishes, homemade oils and vinegars. We also fell under the spell of his grease-free tempura-cooked spring onions, followed by a mayonnaise flavored with hay-smoked oil, and oysters with shiso vinegar (the leaf of which is widely used in Japanese cuisine). In the evenings, Cottier and his brigade assist resident chefs: Fulgurances' philosophy is to showcase young and already well-honed talent. The most recent of these is Australian-born chef Reece Moore, who prepared a summer menu that's all about texture at a fair price (€42). We were able to sample a mustardy veal tartare, pigeon with tarragon mayonnaise, sorrel sorbet and raspberry coulis, with strong but controlled tastes. And we also left our plates carefully cleaned.

Aglio e Olio, cooking à la mama

If you like local produce, no-nonsense cooking and dishes that take several days to prepare (yes, really), you just found your new HQ. The Italian establishment Aglio e Olio and the neighboring French restaurant Massale were both created by the smiling Thomas Chapelle, who offers his expert advice as he goes from table to table. Aglio e Olio is his newest creation: affordable (lunch menus start from €18; dinner menu from €45) while respecting produce and tradition. In the summer, the restaurant, located on a quiet street, can accommodate up to 30 diners.

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