Fernet-Branca, much like contemporary art, is something people either love or hate. Connoisseurs of the liqueur (which is nearly 40% alcohol) say you hate the first glass, tolerate the second, and love the third. Since this blend – its recipe a closely guarded family secret – has a reputation for curing hangovers, it apparently enjoys a slight advantage over today's art.

While in the 19th century it was considered a cure-all, today it is mostly used in cocktails. The Fondation Fernet-Branca, located in Saint-Louis (Haut-Rhin department, eastern France), right on the doorstep of Basel, Switzerland – there is a direct tram between the two – has also been engaged in its own form of unusual mixology for several years. Dominated by a huge eagle with outstretched wings perched atop a globe – recently restored with help from Mission patrimoine [a French heritage preservation fund] – the former distillery, built between 1907 and 1909, has traded in its stills for contemporary art exhibitions.

Was the aim to rejuvenate the product's image? Or, more simply, not to let a remarkable industrial building fall into disrepair? The dimensions alone are notable: a 50-meter façade and 1,500 square meters of space, renovated for the occasion by Jean-Michel Wilmotte. A bit of both, along with the clear vision of Jean Ueberschlag, who served as mayor (RPR-UMP, right-wing political parties) of the city from 1989 to 2011.

You have 56.8% of this article left to read. The rest is for subscribers only.