In the space of two decades, pizza has become a serious topic. It is now the subject of encyclopedias – such as Modernist Pizza by Nathan Myhrvold (Cooking Lab, 2022) – and documentaries, such as Passion Pizza, on France.tv. The venues have also changed. Of course, some run-of-the-mill trattorias still serve bland toppings on limp dough, but, overall, the Italian pie has gained in quality: No self-respecting pizza maker would dare top his creations with Gruyère cheese!

Thanks to the marketing inventiveness of a few chains (Big Mamma, now imitated by Gruppomimo), pizza has become cool. It has also earned credibility thanks to inquisitive chefs (Mauro Colagreco and his mini-chain, Pecora Negra) and rigorous institutions (such as the True Neapolitan Pizza Association, ensuring the Neapolitan specialty's authenticity since 1984).

The younger generation of pizza makers is now turning to "gourmet" pizzas, a somewhat catch-all term that encompasses many new practices. Firstly, the base can be made with sourdough instead of baking powder, using an elaborate blend of flours. Secondly, ingredients are rigorously sourced: Some are imported from Italy for specialties (charcuterie, cheese), while others are bought in France according to the season.

Finally, creativity is essential. "Pizza is something that's been seen and done many times, and today there are so many competitors. Creating gourmet pizzas is a way to stand out while delighting customers," said Jean de Saulieu, the owner of Prima, which opened a year ago in the 17^th arrondissement.

Robert Compagnon opened Oobatz pizzeria in the 11^th arrondissement at the end of May, with baker Dan Pearson in charge. For the chef, too, the idea is to offer a unique experience. "Since lockdown, the French have taken up cooking again, and it's perfectly possible to get a very decent pizza at home, even if you buy the dough in a supermarket," said Compagnon. "So, when you go to a restaurant, it's to try something new. We try to elevate the experience and the flavors."

The names of pizza's new champions (Bonvivant in the 5^th arrondissement and Non Solo Pizze in the 16^th arrondissement) signify a departure from traditional establishments. So, too, do the prices, with a pizza costing around €20. However, generally speaking, there are entry-level prices that allow you to test the difference without breaking the bank, like the marinara (the margherita without mozzarella) at God Bless Broccoli in the 20^th arrondissement, representing a delicious vegan treat with real tomato sauce for €7.50! Here's a selection of three venues where you can experience excellent pizza.

You have 56.58% of this article left to read. The rest is for subscribers only.