As autumn and the first frosts begin to set in, what's on your mind? Sipping an Earl Grey in a cozy spot, while dipping your spoon into a comforting pastry? Good news: The English don't have a monopoly on tearooms! In Paris, we too know how to do cozy.
In the ultra-touristy neighborhood of Saint-Michel, between the crêpe stands and impersonal brasseries, a little haven has resisted since 1928, behind an old-fashioned façade on the charming rue Saint-Julien-le-Pauvre, opposite Notre-Dame. At the end of the Roaring Twenties, Miss Klinklin, an English governess, set up her very own British tearoom. Behind the stained-glass windows, the long, unchanged décor is a cross between a tavern and a pub. Oak beams on the ceiling, dark wooden chairs and tables, wrought-iron chandeliers, old maps of Great Britain on the walls and subdued lighting all combine to transport customers elsewhere. And here, curiously, no one takes out their phone. Friends and couples talk to each other! Organic teas are delicately served in pretty teapots – there are even a dozen rare premium teas on offer – while scones, currant buns, tiered carrot cakes and apple pies served warm are savored on delicate blue-and-white porcelain crockery. Made in England, of course.
The Tea Caddy, 14 Rrue Saint-Julien-le-Pauvre, 5th. Open daily, 11 am to 7 pm. Pastries around €7.50, tea €6.30, premium tea €8.25.
When you think of a tearoom, you think of a whole host of somewhat successful puns. At Chouchouthé, it's justified: You quickly sense that Géraldine Slama, who retrained in pastry-making a decade ago, takes good care of each and every one of her customers, most of whom are regulars in this quiet area of the 12th arrondissement, near Rue de Picpus. In a bluish-toned decor that doesn't try to be trendy but instead focuses on simplicity, the window display of pastries is worthy of a great chef's. Lemon tarts, chocolate tarts and adorable choux pastries are made with precision. Alongside, you'll find classic scones, cookies and chocolate cakes. Everything is concocted in the small, glass-walled workshop visible behind the cash register. And it's just delicious, especially the Exotique – chocolate mousse, mango and passion fruit confit, hazelnut crunch, chocolate cookie – and the custard tart, dense to perfection. At lunchtime, Chouchouthé also offers simple dishes, such as quiche or fish curry, to eat in or take out.
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