"Military zone. No entry." The signs scattered along the road leading to Mount Qasioun no longer deterred the streams of cars packed with smiling families from climbing to the top of this mountain overlooking Damascus. Their trunks were filled with folding chairs, picnics, hookahs, butane tanks for heating tea – anything one might need to come and admire the view of a new Syria, freed from the Assad dynasty after 54 years.

Ten days after the capital was taken by the Hayat Tahrir al-Sham rebels, the promenade with a view of the city was now drawing visitors from all over the country. "It's like all of the bans have been lifted," said Inas, jubilantly smoking hookah. She came to the mountain with her husband and three daughters from Quneitra, 20 kilometers west of the city, to "breathe in freedom."

"We even did a little shopping in the souks of old Damascus. Life is returning everywhere. A new page has opened up. I'm at a loss for words. We couldn't have imagined this," she continued, pouring peanuts into small heart-shaped containers while keeping an eye on her steaming pink teapot.

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