Antonin Simon said yes, right away, the day Hollywood producer Kevin Wendle asked him to revamp the pastry menu at his hotel near Tulum, Mexico. Esencia, the exceptionally beautiful former villa of an Italian duchess on the Caribbean coast, is one of the world's most elegant hotels and a favorite of American actress Gwyneth Paltrow.

The 33-year-old pastry chef from Cholet, in western France, accepted because he loves challenges and travel. Simon proceeded as usual: He immersed himself in studying the gastronomic history of his host country. "I did a lot of research, particularly on chocolate, going all the way back to the Mayans," he said. Then he set about roaming the streets of Mexico City sampling everything. "I love street food, and I love taking inspiration from it to make something exceptional," he said. He discovered the Mexican taste for tres leches, three-milk cake, the recipe for which has long appeared on the back of Nestlé milk cartons, and for horchata, the cinnamon rice drink that is a staple of taquerías.

The exceptional nature of the Yucatán, with its wildflowers and exotic fruits, inspired him to create a pavlova with guava compote, grilled pineapple cubes and hoja santa (commonly known as Mexican pepper). "I fell in love with this leaf, which I use fresh and finely chopped," he said. "It gives the pavlova a unique flavor and adds pep, while de-sugaring the meringue." It's a simple dish of fresh fruit, punctuated with meringue dots and wildflowers designed to reassure the hotel's clientele – North American celebrities who prefer acai berry bowls and protein shakers to layer cakes. "In the evening, they indulge themselves more with desserts that are not too sweet."

Tame the ingredients and the weather

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