In air transport, the variety of destinations, the modernity of the fleet and even the luxury of the cabins are no longer enough to attract passengers to the first and business classes at the front of the aircraft. These are the most profitable classes for Air France, Emirates, Qatar Airways, Qantas and others. The extent of the wine list and, above all, the quality of the champagnes are also making the difference between the airlines. To push each other to the limit, the biggest names in air transport are competing for Burgundy, Bordeaux and Champagne.
"There's a race between airlines to pre-empt the best wines and champagnes," said an executive at a major carrier, speaking on condition of anonymity. Emirates, for example, has just unveiled its new wine list for 2024. For the coming year alone, the Gulf carrier, chaired by Briton Tim Clark, has revealed that it has spent almost 50 million euros. Since 2006, it has invested over one billion dollars (900 million euros) to satisfy passengers on its international flights. Over the next few months, it has already announced, its planes will resemble flying wine bars, where passengers in first and business class will be able to choose between a 2011 Montrachet, a 2013 Chevalier-Montrachet or a 2014 Corton-Charlemagne.
Emirates is far from the only airline betting on fine wines and exceptional champagnes. "When you call yourself Air France, it's an essential part of the positioning of our offer," said Fabien Pelous, Customer Experience Director, who added that the company "buys a million bottles of champagne a year." But not the most sought-after, Dom Pérignon, favored by wealthier groups. "For 15 years, Singapore Airlines has served Dom Pérignon and Krug 'Grande Cuvée', two champagnes considered to be the most prestigious," said Franklin Auber, Director of Marketing and Communications for Singapore Airlines France.
This collaboration recently came to an end. "In 2022, Dom Pérignon announced that it was not producing enough to serve several companies," said Auber. Emirates took over the good bubbles. "We're the biggest buyer of Dom Pérignon in the world," said Cédric Renard, director general of Emirates France. Singapore Airlines can console itself with the five awards it won at the latest Cellars in the Sky awards, the equivalent of the Oscars for the quality of wines served on board aircraft.
For their passengers, airlines have to think ahead. Emirates, for example, has built up a cellar of six million bottles in an undisclosed location in Burgundy. Some of these bottles will not be opened until 2037. Air France, which invests over 30 million euros in its wines and spirits every year, has chosen, since 2022, to serve only French spirits on board and in its lounges. For the future, the company, "the only one in the world to serve champagne in economy class," has opted to give up the bubbles and focus on froth. "By 2024, beer consumption will overtake wine consumption," said Pelous.