The small world of bakeries is in the midst of a revolution. Ancient grains, organic flour, natural leavening rather than chemical yeast and longer fermentation processes: In Paris, as elsewhere, bread is reinventing itself through a return to ancient practices. "This movement is driven by a new generation of passionate bakers, who have often retrained," explained Julien Cantenot, who for a long time offered in-home training courses to teach individuals how to make their own bread, before opening his bakery, Atelier P1, in the 18^th arrondissement of Paris.

There are many great boulangeries in Paris, and we can't talk about them all here; we'd love to have mentioned the organic delights of Arlette & Colette (17^th), the execution at Quignon (9^th) and the black charcoal breads of The French Bastards, already established in several arrondissements. In tiny boutiques like Aux Pains d'Emile (17^th), we discovered some treasures: Emile's bread (€8.50 a kilo), 100% sourdough and browned through baking, with a delicious gingerbread flavor.

But for this selection, we have focused on establishments offering a varied range of products at reasonable prices. This rules out boulangeries such as Pane Vivo, for instance, which are backed by a convincing narrative, but sell their very gorgeous loaves at a premium price (around €15 a kilo for the best-selling ones). The list below only includes boulangeries that sell their fine piece of culinary craftsmanship for less than €10.

Water, salt, sourdough and flour: That's Atelier P1's magic formula. Nothing particularly original? No, but the ingredients are exceptionally well-sourced and crafted. Founder Cantenot, whose family has been in the milling and baking business for four generations, has put together a range of offerings that are somewhat limited but always successful. The house bestseller is the P1 du square ("P1 from the square" €8.62 per kilo), which is made from Gilles Matignon's flours, one of the few small mills around Paris that work with wheat harvested within 50 kilometers. With its crisp crust, soft crumb and lightly spiced aroma, it's a perfect basic. He has created versions with Kalamata olives and herbs, to be enjoyed as an aperitif (or when temptation is too strong to resist), ideally topped with a dash of olive oil.

The viennoiseries are to die for, especially the pain au chocolat with gianduja, Italian praline made from roasted hazelnuts, chocolate and powdered sugar. A few meters along the same street, the owner has opened P1 Bouche, which sells reasonably priced small dishes, often making use of the boulangerie's treasures, such as soft-boiled eggs with toast, and gourmet tartines, both savory or sweet.

Atelier P1, 157, Rue Marcadet, Paris 18^th. Tel: 09-84-07-56-45.

With his pastry chef training and unwavering kindness, Benoît Castel is a bit like the doting father of Parisian bakeries. You enter his stores with the same excitement as Hansel (or Gretel) as he enters the gingerbread house. And indeed, his best-selling product, pain du coin ("bread from round the corner," €10.20 a kilo), baked in a wood-fired oven, has flavors reminiscent of gingerbread, as the owner incorporates forest honey in its creation. In addition, the natural quince sourdough and Salish salt add a subtle, overall smoky note.

Another flagship product is the pain granola ("granola bread," €11.50 per kilo), with a soft texture that is packed with a deluge of walnuts, hazelnuts, pumpkin seeds, linseed, sesame seeds and large sultanas. Try it toasted for breakfast, or paired with a good foie gras! Lastly, the pain d'hier et de demain ("bread from yesterday and tomorrow," €11.70 per kilo), made from bread that remains unsold after three working days, now comes in a pain au chocolatine variation with cocoa powder and chocolate chunks, finally reconciling those who call it a pain au chocolat and those who prefer the term chocolatine. Everything is absolutely delicious. Our only reservation is that for these slightly sweet breads, the prices are a little steep.

Benoît Castel, 150, Rue de Ménilmontant, Paris 20^th. Tel: 01-46-36-13-82; 77, Rue Jean-Pierre Timbaud, Paris 11^th. Tel: 01-48-06-70-59; 11, Rue Sorbier, Paris 20^th. Tel.: 01-42-62-31-20.

It's the go-to boulangerie of trendy right-bank foodies, whose creations can be found in fine bistronomic restaurants (such as Datsha Underground). Even if you have a lasting aversion to hipsters, you've got to check it out! Sain was created by Anthony Courteille, who grew up with his hands in brioche dough (his uncle was a baker). A man of convictions, the 40-something only works with ancient, unprocessed wheat varieties, which he considers to be a bit like the equivalent of grape varieties in wine. The result is breads that are easier to digest and sometimes more expensive (between €9.60 and €14.30 a kilo, so partner farmers can be paid fairly), with strong aromatic characteristics.

Take, for instance, the amidonnié, a large loaf with a firm, dark crumb and hints of rye and chestnut, which is made from emmer wheat, a variety used in ancient times by the Egyptians! The baked breads also make Sain unique. Courteille has spent time in prestigious kitchens (including at the Michelin-starred Guy Martin) and approaches his bakery creations like gourmet dishes. There's a rye loaf layered with truffles; a loaf made from lentil flour threaded with lardons and sausage. For Christmas, Sain even sells a loaf with lobster bisque, the perfect accompaniment to a seafood platter.

Sain, 13, Rue Alibert, Paris 10^th. Tel: 07-61-23-49-44; 23, Rue des Gravilliers, Paris 3^th. Tel.: 06-50-36-78-17.

Among many bakers of the new generation, there is a lack of interest or a certain disdain for the baguette tradition (or traditional baguette, often referred to as simply "tradition"): It's not very profitable and doesn't allow for extravagant creativity (its manufacture is defined by a decree dated September 13, 1993), and so is sometimes simply abandoned in the trendiest stores. And yet, baguettes tradition can be a remarkable and remarkably affordable product.

Such is the case at Au Levain des Pyrénées, a no-frills boulangerie in eastern Paris with a string of awards to its name, including best Parisian baguette tradition in 2023. Pay €1.35, bite into the crisp, golden crust and the dense, well-structured texture, and you'll understand why the place has won so many awards. It just goes to show that sometimes, the pleasure of good bread doesn't need ancient flour and long fermentation times.

Moreover, even the baguette blanche ("white baguette"), generally scorned (because of its mediocre quality, often packed with additives), is very pleasant here; it's crisp, with an airy texture, easily digestible and at a democratic price (€1.10)! Tharshan Selvarajah, a baker of Sri Lankan origin, brilliantly crafts these hallmarks of the French way of life. Today, he supplies bread to the Paris City Hall.

Au Levain des Pyrénées, 44, Rue des Pyrénées, Paris 20^th. Tel: 09-51-39-90-04.

This one is a breath of fresh air in the heat of the bakehouse! Since the creation of their first establishment in 2017, Cécile Khayat and Victoria Effantin have been shaking up the boulangerie classics. What's new is this feminine duo in a "male" environment, where women are generally confined to the cash register. Then there's a certain brazenness: They take on products that are sometimes unattractive (because they're handcrafted, and therefore different from one another), unavailable (stocks are limited to guarantee maximum freshness) and with playful formulations.

However, the real reason impressive queues form daily in front of Mamiche is first and foremost because their products are tasty and affordable! Take the baguette tradition, for instance, which is golden, crispy and soft, and costs €1, a price that is almost unheard of in Paris. We also like the pain muesli (muesli bread), with its generous filling, and the tourte de seigle (rye tart, which is sometimes filled with figs). There are some lovely gems here too, such as babka, which can also be bought by the slice; a baguette tradition, which can be turned into a chocolate-filled round loaf; and the flute baguette, which can become a chocolatey or savory delicacy.

Mamiche Château, 32, Rue du Château-d'Eau, Paris 10^th. Tel: 01-42-08-42-02; Mamiche Condorcet, 45, Rue Condorcet, Paris 9^th. Tel.: 01-53-21-03-68.

Léo Pajon

Translation of an original article published in French on lemonde.fr; the publisher may only be liable for the French version.