A number of fine Mexican-inspired establishments exist in the provinces: notably Alebrije in Lyon and Le Mezquité in Le Touquet, Pas-de-Calais. But Paris has seen the emergence of a constellation of specialized addresses in recent years. From inexpensive taquerias to traditional or Michelin-starred restaurants, there's a wide range of places to discover this cuisine that blends the indigenous flavors of Mexico with Spanish, African, English and Lebanese influences.

Behind this vibrantly musical and colorful taqueria, with fabulous aromas of roasted meat escaping from it, is chef Beatriz Gonzalez. After a career rooted in French gastronomy, this is a rigorous return to her roots. She is one of the few to make homemade tortillas, in the basement, which she adorns with sumptuous fillings – spit-roasted pork, shredded beef – and sells at knock-down prices (three tacos, €13.90). But we also come back for the side dishes, like this pumpkin seed hummus (€5.90) with tortilla chips, sesame seeds, pickles and cilantro, to die for.

Taco Mesa, 40 Rue du Faubourg-Poissonnière, 10^th Tel: 09-78-81-06-00.

In this pretty taqueria with the allure of a bright, trendy café, chef Jeanett Rosales Galan relies on an accessible taco offer (a lunch deal from €15 for three tacos with an appetizer or dessert) to help her customers explore new flavors. We're particularly impressed by the work on smokiness, from the cocktails (adding mezcal to raspberries macerated in alcohol, which you grind yourself in a mortar) to the housemade macha salsa (made from dried chilis and peanuts) that accompanies the dishes.

Alegrias, 67 Avenue Parmentier, 11^th. Tel: 01-48-07-03-27.

Is it because the room in this very narrow canteen seats just 20 and is adorned with candles? It feels like entering a secret place. And the magic of the dishes does the rest. Chef Carlos Moreno does a masterful job. For example, he does a cod (€26) sublimated by a pipian seafood and pumpkin seed sauce, subtly spiced with guajillo peppers. He is one of the few chefs to work with French seasonal produce, dispensing with soilless ingredients such as pineapple and avocado. Lunch deals start at €22.

Comer, 96 Rue d'Hauteville, 10^th.

This is the place for traditional cuisine! Mercedes Ahumada, who inherited her knowledge from her mother and her grandmother, a cook, passes it on in this establishment, which shouldn't be judged by its rather cold decor. The plates, by contrast, are warming from the amuse-bouche and this blue corn fritter filled with huitlacoche, a corn infected by a parasitic fungus sometimes nicknamed the "Mexican truffle." Octopus flavored with burnt chili, lamb in an agave leaf papillote, and, above all, an incomparable mole sauce: The experience is unique. Six-course menu, €88.

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