In the early 2000s, French cuisine underwent a lasting transformation with the emergence of bistronomy. "Dishes and plating became more relaxed and inventive," said chef Jason Gouzy. "But sometimes there was also a lack of rigor, shortcuts were taken in the kitchen. Today, many of us want to return to traditional techniques, real sauces, slow-cooked dishes." Gouzy just opened Panurge, a restaurant that revives white tablecloths and elegant tableware. Even the restrooms feature books by classical author Rabelais stacked on the shelves and the recorded voice of chef Maïté, who came to fame in the '80s thanks to her traditional cooking show in France.

Elsewhere in Paris and its suburbs, great French classics have made a notable comeback in recent years. Examples include Baca'v and Bonnotte restaurants in Boulogne-Billancourt, La Ferme du Pré in the Bois de Boulogne, Le Chantoiseau in Montmartre, La Poule au Pot and Aux Crus de Bourgogne near Les Halles, and Café César in Clichy. These restaurants are betting on timeless favorites such as pâté en croûte (meat terrine baked in pastry), lièvre à la royale (royal-style hare), and crêpe Suzette (crepes drenched in a caramelized butter sauce with liquor).

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