To find the establishments where the people of Marseille have been dining for ages, the first method is to trust restaurants named after their owners: Chez Michel for bouillabaisse, Chez Zé or Chez Etienne for pizzas, Chez le Belge for spaghetti bolognese by the water, Chez Madie Les Galinettes for offal or Chez Paul for fresh fish at the port of Les Goudes.

A somewhat quirky logic, but rather reliable if you want to visit institutions and rediscover the "Marseille taste" that Pierre Psaltis, a long-time gastronomic critic for the newspaper La Provence, defines in Ezéchiel Zérah's 2023 book, Marseille. Un jour sans faim! 25 heures d'explorations culinaires pour croquer toute la ville ("Marseille: A nerverending foodies' journey! 25 hours of culinary explorations to take in the whole city"), as bold flavors that are often exaggerated – rich in salt, garlic and acidity. It also embodies a love for tomatoes, citrus fruits, and spices "as well as the Mediterranean diet made of boiled vegetables, an abundance of fish and lean white meats, often grilled."

The second strategy – ours – involved conducting direct inquiries with the locals. The result: Tables just as frequented by Marseillais, but more low key. Neighborhood hideouts that turn out to be Neapolitan, Turkish or Tunisian, reminding us that this port city has been open to the Mediterranean and its multiple cultures for over two millennia.

Maison Journo, gazelle ankles and fricassés

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