The end of the year is often the occasion for changes in luxury houses, and 2023 is no exception, particularly on the Italian side. On November 1, Moschino announced the appointment of Davide Renne as Creative Director, a position that had been vacant since Jeremy Scott's departure in March. The designer, who had made his career at Gucci, died nine days later of a "sudden illness." The house did not comment on the outcome.

On November 2, Blumarine announced the arrival of Walter Chiapponi, a surprising choice since this Italian had distinguished himself at Tod's with his sober, chic taste, far removed from Blumarine's kitsch aesthetic. Separated from Chiapponi since September, Tod's waited until December 10 to appoint Matteo Tamburini, who had been poached from Bottega Veneta, where he was responsible for ready-to-wear. Three days later, Italian Alessandro Vigilante, who had launched his own brand in 2020, was announced at the head of French house Rochas.

On the French side, it's been seemingly quieter. Only Givenchy reported the end of Matthew M. Williams's contract on December 1 and has not commented on the future. Williams and the previous designer, Clare Waight Keller, only stayed for three years each: The house probably doesn't want to move too quickly and run the risk of choosing someone who would only be passing through.

Freed from Givenchy, Williams can now concentrate on his own label, Alyx, which he has moved from Milan to Paris. Other designers who have seen their contracts come to an end in recent months have yet to announce their future projects. Among them, the Italian Alessandro Michele, who made Gucci (Kering) shine for eight years, seems to be of interest to LVMH, which owns two brands based in Rome (Fendi and Bulgari), where Michele lives. Kering has also let go of Sarah Burton, who had a brilliant career at McQueen and should have no trouble finding a new employer. Lanvin, which has been without a head since the departure of Bruno Sialelli in April, is expected to announce his replacement early next year.

In early 2024, we'll be able to judge the relevance of the 2023 appointments: On January 12, Sabato de Sarno will show his first men's collection for Gucci at Milan Fashion Week. After a half-hearted show for women in September, the pressure is on. At Paris Fashion Week, which runs from February 26 to March 5, 2024, it will be the turn of Sean McGirr, at McQueen, and Chemena Kamali, at Chloé, to prove themselves, two still little-known designers named in October who will have to make their mark in a highly competitive fashion week.

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