THE MORNING LIST
European Heritage Days are an opportunity to visit places usually closed to the public or to discover buildings with unknown histories close to home. For the 41st edition, taking place over the weekend of September 21 and 22, several themes, including maritime heritage, stand out. Numerous events are being organized along France's coasts. Here is a selection of 10 places to discover (or rediscover) in mainland France and its overseas territories.
Riding on the renewed popularity of Alexandre Dumas' novel Le Comte de Monte-Cristo (The Count of Monte Cristo, 1846), linked to this summer's success of the film adaptation starring Pierre Niney as Edmond Dantès, European Heritage Days are offering the chance to discover one of the story's iconic locations: the Château d'If. Built on the open sea by François I in the 16th century, opposite the city of Marseille, this fortress is famous for its imaginary prisoner, but it was also the gaol of real-life figures. Digital Abysses, an exhibition of digital art by Miguel Chevalier, is also on show.
Free tour from 10:00 am to 6:00 pm. Boarding at the Vieux-Port, Quai de la Fraternité, Marseille (paid crossing).
Alongside military ships and cruise liners, a scientific vessel, the Alfred-Merlin, is going to be moored in Toulon harbor all weekend. Its mission is to study archaeological remains on the seabed. The 28 members of its crew are tasked with detecting and excavating shipwrecks in the depths of French waters. Archaeologists and members of the crew will be on hand to explain their work through tours of the boat. "High-heeled shoes and shoes without back straps are not recommended for the visit," warned the Département des Recherches Archéologiques Subaquatiques et Sous-Marines (Department of Underwater and Subaquatic Archaeological Research, DRASSM), the ministry of culture department to which the boat is attached.
Carré du Port, Quai Cronstadt, Toulon. Forty-five-minute tours, in groups of 10. Saturday, 10:00 am to 6:00 pm; Sunday, 10:00 am to 5:00 pm.
A symbol of the strength of French ports, the port of Le Havre is also known to have inspired numerous painters. Claude Monet depicted it in two paintings, Impression, Soleil Levant (1872) and Port de Mer (1874). Strolls around the containers will be organized throughout the weekend, as well as a meeting with Le Havre artist Hervé Delamare, in the Japanese garden, a landscaped area donated to the Port of Le Havre by the Port of Osaka in 1992.
Terre-plein de la Barre, Le Havre (Seine-Maritime), tours of the port between 9:35 am, and 3:45 pm; meeting with Hervé Delamare, Chaussée Lamandé, on Sunday between 10:30 am and 5:30 pm.
France's only metal lighthouse, the Walde lighthouse stands on the Hemmes beach between Calais (Pas-de-Calais) and Gravelines (Pas-de-Calais). Built in 1857 by Irish engineer Alexander Mitchell, and listed as a historic monument since 2022, the building has been badly damaged by erosion. Calais residents are calling for the restoration of this maritime lookout, which symbolizes the dividing line between the North Sea and the English Channel. To access the lighthouse without getting wet feet, the walk will take place at low tide, on Saturday, September 21.
Parking opposite the Oldenburg artillery battery, at the end of Chemin des Dunes, Calais (Pas-de-Calais), Saturday between 9:00 and 11:45 am. Walk limited to 25 people.
Hermanville-sur-Mer (Normandy) became a seaside resort at the end of the 19th century. The lure of sea bathing was inspiring Parisians to build villas on the Normandy coast. The construction of a railroad line between Caen and Paris, and the appearance of beach cabins, illustrated the tourist transformation of this commune. This is traced in the course of a walk leading to a tour of buildings designed by great architects, among them Hector Guimard, including villas that are almost cubic and symmetrical with great varieties of colors and materials such as pebbles and shells.
Place du Cuirassé-Courbet, Hermanville-sur-Mer (Calvados), Sunday, 10:00 am and 3:00 pm (duration two hours). Visits limited to 35 people.
The Belem, the oldest French merchant sailing ship still at sea – having changed flags several times before regaining its tricolor flag – will be passing through Saint-Malo (Brittany). After transporting the Olympic flame from Athens to Marseille ahead of the Paris 2024 Olympic Games, the three-masted square-rigged vessel will be moored in Breton waters. Tours will be organized throughout the weekend in the company of the crew.
Bassin Vauban, Quai Saint-Louis, Saint-Malo (Ille-et-Vilaine), free admission Saturday and Sunday, 10:00 am to 5:30 pm.
The Cordouan Lighthouse and Beacon Museum is located at the foot of the Grave lighthouse, built in 1859 at the mouth of the Gironde estuary. From the top of its 28-meter, 107-step square tower, visitors enjoy a breathtaking view of the estuary and the Cordouan lighthouse, one of the oldest and most remarkable lighthouses standing alone at sea. An exhibition features models of all the lighthouses along the Gironde estuary, along with 3D animations and educational games. Climbing the lighthouse tower is limited to 20 people at a time.
2, Allée du Sémaphore, Le Verdon-sur-Mer (Gironde). Visits from 2:00 pm to 6:00 pm.
Built from 1638 onwards to protect Flamands Bay in Fort-de-France, Martinique, the Vauban-style Fort Saint-Louis is today the naval base of the French West Indies armed forces. Partly classified as a historic monument since 1973, the building offers a remarkable view of the cove, ranked as one of the most beautiful in the world. Conferences and guided tours are scheduled throughout the day.
29, Rue Victor-Hugo, Fort-de-France (Martinique), free visits, Saturday, 9:00 am to 4:00 pm.
The shipyards of La Ciotat shaped this southeastern French town's economy until the late 1980s. The former industrial port was converted to yacht maintenance and repair in the 2000s. A fleet of luxury boats is moored where military vessels used to be assembled in the 20th century. A "signposted walking tour" is being organized on Sunday, September 22.
46, Quai François-Mitterrand, La Ciotat (Bouches-du-Rhône). Free tours on Sundays from 10:00 am to 5:00 pm.
A replica of a warship in service at the end of the 18th century, L'Hermione is currently being renovated in Anglet (southwestern France). The shipyard will be open to the public, who will be able to discover the ship's history, the challenges of its construction in the southwestern city of Rochefort over a period of 10 years, its voyages and its major refit. Visitors will have access to the upper deck and crew dormitories below the battery deck.
Dry dock, 12, Avenue de l'Adour, Anglet (Pyrénées-Atlantiques). Visits by appointment between 10:00 am and 6:00 pm, Friday to Sunday.