This is their week, where they leave behind husbands and children to cycle through France together. Sophie Pannetier and Perrine Momi, two sisters aged 45 and 47 who live in the Occitanie region – one a nurse, the other a biology teacher – started this summer ritual during the Covid-19 pandemic. It was a period that rekindled their desire for the outdoors.

In mid-July, they loaded their bikes onto trains to Orléans, then set off along the cycle path running alongside the Loire. Their destination was Pornic, Loire-Atlantique, a 625-kilometer journey in seven days. On their bikes (10 kg each), they carried two tents, inflatable mattresses, a stove and a saucepan. One bike was electrically assisted, the other was not. "We need a more active vacation, otherwise we'd get bored! Besides, it's a cheap vacation. We spend around €50 a day," said Pannetier, as she arrived at the L'Estuaire campsite in Paimbœuf (Loire-Atlantique).

Near the mouth of the Loire, this campsite is located at the crossroads of two major bike routes: the Loire à Vélo and the Vélodyssée. A true hub for cyclists. At the height of the season, the owner, Grégory Berment, hosts around 50 cyclists every evening. "When my wife and I bought the campsite in 2021, we didn't realize there would be so many!" He takes great care of his clientele, especially since they tend to spend at the snack bar and are active on forums and social media, where cyclists share their recommendations of where to stay.

At L’Estuaire, cyclists are given the red carpet treatment with tent pitches, a repair workshop, and a battery charging area. Most importantly, there are small wooden cabins, equipped with mattresses, outdoor tables, and bike racks at the back. Kevin and Mallaurie (surnames not provided), from the Nantes region, opted for this option, for around €40 a night. "It's more comfortable than a tent, and suits people who are only staying for one night," said Berment. "We don't rent out mobile homes by the night, because there's too much cleaning to do."

Once a niche activity, cycle touring is enjoying growing success. "Visitor numbers on the main routes are increasing by around 5% a year," said Olivier Amblard, president of France Vélo Tourisme, the platform that lists routes and accommodations. While the majority of cyclists take day trips, the number of "touring" cyclists is rising. On the Vélodyssée, in 2023, their numbers rose by 63% in 2018, to 330,000, said the Coordination Mutualisée des Véloroutes (Joint Coordination of Cycle Routes). In five years, cycling tourism's economic impact on routes like the Loire à Vélo or destinations such as Brittany has doubled.

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