What do Dakar (Senegal), Manchester (UK) and Marseille have in common? These three cities are not typically associated with the world of fashion and luxury. Yet, Chanel has chosen to host fashion shows in all of them over the past 18 months. On Thursday, May 2, the Parisian fashion house took to the rooftop terrace of Le Corbusier's Cité Radieuse in Marseille to present its Cruise 2025 show. The 600 guests, spread over two shows due to the limited capacity of the UNESCO World Heritage building, arrived calmly in the light rain, which may have deterred onlookers, who were few in number despite the presence of celebrities such as Lily-Rose Depp and Marion Cotillard.
In Marseille, as in Dakar and Manchester, there are no Chanel boutiques, so it was not a question of going there to do business. "But these are inspiring cities," said Bruno Pavlovsky, president of the label's fashion activities. "Luxury shouldn't be the preserve of a few idyllic and sheltered locations, but connected to the world's reality. This helps to broaden the imaginative realm surrounding the brand while respecting its codes."
The choice of unique destinations aligns with a stable stylistic proposition that proves successful in stores – Chanel passed the €16 billion sales mark in 2022. Since Virginie Viard succeeded Karl Lagerfeld as artistic director in 2019, she has followed in the footsteps of her predecessor, who had himself skillfully dusted off the brand codes defined by Gabrielle Chanel: Tweed tailoring serves as the foundation, adorned with double-C logos, pearls, jewel belts and a black and white palette; comfortable clothes and shoes that exude confidence.
This collection is no exception but with a Marseille twist. "The sun, the architecture, the music and the dance: For me, Marseille also evokes a very strong sense of freedom. I was inspired by life's codes, everyday experiences and everything that invites movement," explained Viard. For her, the Cité Radieuse, Le Corbusier's first housing unit (of a series of five) in the brutalist style, built between 1947 and 1952, is the ideal setting for "capturing the city's energy."
The city of Marseille is evoked through cute marine elements, embroidered little fish or fishing nets as well as seashell pendants. Ripples of frills adorn jerseys, tweeds and sequined jackets. The geometric shapes and primary colors of the Cité Radieuse can be seen in the grid pattern of a dress or embroidered sequin pockets. There are also a few sportswear elements – embroidered jogging capris, tweed cycling shorts, hooded sweaters – and white openwork cotton dresses reminiscent of Provence. It's a range that is distinctly "Chanel."
Walking the runway in an environment not associated with the world of luxury requires more effort and finesse than in Monaco or Capri. Chanel is well aware of this, and in Dakar, as in Marseille, the Parisian brand was careful not only to take advantage of the setting but also to invest in the city. In Dakar, it deployed a whole arsenal of initiatives, from support for the agricultural cotton industry to the renovation of the former Palais de Justice, while collaborating with local artisans.
In Marseille, the program is a little lighter: From May 3 to 26, 19M – Chanel's cultural space bringing together all its artisanal crafts – will take over Fort Saint-Jean, one of the sites of the Musée des Civilisations de l'Europe et de la Méditerranée (Museum of Civilization of Europe and the Mediterranean, MUCEM), for a collective exhibition, round-table discussions and free participatory embroidery workshops. "A fashion show lasts 20 minutes. We wanted to leave something concrete and accessible for the people of Marseille," said Pavlovsky. The 1,600 Cité Radieuse residents, who spent two weeks living alongside the crew setting up the show, couldn't attend but were treated to a cocktail party to see the film of the show.
In terms of the city, Chanel, which set up its event in collaboration with the local authorities, seems to have been rather well received: "We tiptoed in, not really knowing what to expect," said Pavlovsky. "But from the town hall to the MuCEM and the artists, all our partners gave us a very warm welcome."
In the Cours Julien district, you might spot a few "Chanel, get lost" posters, alongside others denouncing the arrival of the Olympic Games. "Like most people I know, I'm very happy they're here," said Mélanie Gomis, a fashion designer from Marseille. "It shows that you can associate Marseille with the idea of luxury or couture." "Their choice to come here surprised me," said Alix de Moussac, founder of the La Nouvelle brand. "But it puts the city on the map, and gets people talking about it for the right reasons."
In recent months, Marseille has mostly made the headlines for the resurgence of its drug trade, which caused 49 deaths in 2023. A shoot-out broke out again three days before the fashion show. "Marseille has problems with drugs and crime. But it also has other facets, and we want to show through our presence that this city deserves attention," explained Pavlovsky.
In addition to the catwalk show, Chanel enhanced its collection presentation with an exhibition, city-themed videos, and photos. The brand also took its 600 guests to various restaurants and museums. Additionally, it will later stage a "replica" of this show in a key market, just as it reproduced the December 2022 fashion show in Dakar six months later in Tokyo. A postcard from Marseille which, logic dictates, should end up in China or the United States.
Translation of an original article published in French on lemonde.fr; the publisher may only be liable for the French version.