What if Pinot Noir and Meunier, the two black grape varieties that dominate champagnes, were to enjoy a new-found popularity? What if producing "blanc de noirs" cuvées – bubbly whites made from black-skinned grapes – became a trend? The question will seem incongruous to fans of Chardonnay, the golden, flamboyant third grape variety that best expresses Champagne's chalky subsoils.

It's also true that the vast majority of champagne bottles consumed worldwide are blends of the three grape varieties, or rosés. True also, champagne used to be renowned for its blanc de blancs, produced with Chardonnay alone. "Champagne is a white wine, often characterized by the finesse and lightness associated with chardonnay," said Brigitte Batonnet, documentalist and memory keeper with the Comité Champagne. "Talking about a blanc de noirs could lead to confusion." That's why, for decades, black grapes were mainly used for blending and making rosés. But that's changing. "There's been a recent craze for blanc de noirs, and the offer has multiplied," said Guillaume Roffiaen, cellar master at Nicolas Feuillatte, the region's largest cooperative, which brings together 5,000 winegrowers, or a third of Champagne's workforce.

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