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Beauty tech is 'optimizing' skincare and cosmetic practices
InvestigationWith LED masks to treat acne and augmented reality software for choosing the right foundation, new technologies are invading the beauty market. Particularly popular with the younger generation, these tools for fighting the march of time combine tailor-made care with the quest for effectiveness.
The before-and-after effect is striking. At the start of the video, we see a photo of an acne-scarred face, then the same face soon emerges with flawless skin. It only took a few days for this TikTok post by @caggiebaby to reach 2 million views. In it, the Canadian influencer describes the transformation of her epidermis after six months of daily use of CurrentBody's LED mask. It couldn't be more convincing. This same item had already enjoyed enormous buzz following its appearance in the series Emily in Paris, so much so that even the brand, already a celebrity favorite, was taken aback by it. "The scale, global in scope, was completely insane," observed Laurence Newman, CEO of CurrentBody.
Today, when it comes to taking care of your skin, cosmetics are no longer enough. People are turning to high-tech tools and LED masks in particular. When French brand Nooance launched its LED mask in December 2023, it sold out after just six hours. While these devices promise above all an anti-aging effect and cost several hundred euros, young people are eager to invest in them.
"The average age of our customers is 30. From the age of 24, many use it to diminish imperfections and prevent wrinkles," explained Carole Amar, founder of Nooance. Inspired by the techniques practiced by aesthetic medicine doctors, whom the younger generations have no hesitation in consulting, these treatments are a way of bringing a little medical expertise into the home.
Light masks offer a reduced power version of the LEDs used in dermatology for years. The science behind it? Diodes emit red light to stimulate cell renewal and collagen production. The French brand myBlend, founded by Olivier Courtin-Clarins, offers the Rolls Royce of the genre (€1,200), made in France and designed with laser-therapy expert Dr. François Michel.
"To ensure a noticeable result," explained Henri du Masle, myBlend's general manager, "the skin must be at just the right distance from the light source. That's why we've created a mask that doesn't lie flat, but hugs the shape of the face and neck. We developed it in collaboration with a start-up company, which merged a thousand physiognomies to find the right shape. For a launch in Asia, we'd have to work on another version, as the morphology is different."
The quality, power and number of the LEDs used are also determining factors. "We can say that the flatter the object, the fewer LEDs it has, and the less efficient it is. A high-quality model can't cost just €200," summed up du Masle. The results of recent clinical tests presented by myBlend show the dermal structure rejuvenated by three years in one month, when used three to four times per week. The next step is to test the synergy of the myLEDmask with the company's revitalizing cream.
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