Even if autumn is upon us, lunch or dinner by the water is not out of the question. Around Paris, a host of restaurants and guinguettes offer the chance to drop anchor and try their often iodized menus. Except that in most of these places, the quality is rarely up to scratch. And a host of "concept" restaurants rely more on the marketing tricks of old Seadogs than on their menus. Here is a selection of fine establishments where you can dock without worry.

L'Imprévu, a sure bet

Some restaurants on the banks of the Seine have a slightly old-fashioned charm that stirs up both nostalgia and appetite. You'll sit beside ancient barges, lost in the silky reflections of the water or the promise of a menu featuring rump steak and sea bass that seems not to have changed in ages (except for the prices). L'Imprévu, in Conflans-Sainte-Honorine (Yvelines, west of Paris), belongs to this category of seemingly unchanging good restaurants. Nevertheless, there have been many changes: Julien Praillet, the chef and owner, modernized everything when he took over from his father seven years ago, getting rid of the carpet and Louis XVI decor. What remains today is a bright, uncluttered dining room, its walls adorned in beautiful golden stone, and a small terrace jutting out toward the river on fine days.

The short menu pays tribute to classics and homemade dishes. From the foie gras to the profiteroles, everything is prepared on-site. Even the salmon (Scottish red label) is smoked in the kitchen. Some dishes are, admittedly, subtly reinvented with a sweet-and-savory twist. For the appetizer, a delicious veal liver arrives pink, almost caramelized, on a handful of strawberries bursting with flavor. Duck breast comes with a sweet potato mousseline. However, on the whole, we were not particularly overwhelmed, including by the dressings: Here and there, streaks of balsamic vinegar criss-cross the plate, a practice that was fashionable a decade or so ago. However, that's not the point; you're sure to leave the place happy and warmed by well-crafted values served with a smile by friendly staff. There's a three-course set menu at €39 and the owner is considering a lunchtime set menu. Let them know if you'd like vegetarian options; they are not listed on the menu but can be arranged.

Le Millésime du Port, a haven of freshness

A cluster of pleasure boats floats in the green waters of the port. Onlookers in pastel shorts seem to stroll in slow motion along the quays. This could be a seaside resort, but in fact, we're in the Val-d'Oise, at Port de Cergy (northwest of Paris). Opposite the sailboats, a small restaurant focusing on fresh produce stands out from the competition: Le Millésime du Port. Young chef Pierre-Jean Delmas (formerly of Biarritz's Hôtel du Palais) took over the helm of this gourmet bistro boat seven years ago and steers a firm course to anchor his establishment in seasonal and local produce (as far as possible).

You have 70% of this article left to read. The rest is for subscribers only.