Everyone was expecting a woman, but in the end, the replacement is a man. Seán McGirr, an Irish designer previously unknown to the general public and little known to insiders, was appointed creative director of Alexander McQueen after Sarah Burton announced her surprise departure on September 11. Burton bowed out with panache (and a standing ovation) after 13 years in this strategic position – and 26 years in total with the brand – at the Spring/Summer 2024 show in Paris on September 30. Now, all of Kering's fashion houses are led by male creative directors.
Francois-Henri Pinault, chairman and CEO of Kering (the brand's owner said), "Alexander McQueen is a house we are passionate about, and we are confident that Seán McGirr will be able to pursue its journey with a new creative impetus. We look forward to opening this new chapter in the history of this unique brand."
As far as the fashion world is concerned, McQueen holds a special place. First and foremost, this is due to the tortured and endearing personality of its founder, Lee Alexander McQueen, the British designer who took his own life in 2010 at the age of 40.
A whole chapter of English fashion history has been written by him and his eponymous label, founded in 1992 and owned by Kering Group (formerly the Gucci Group) since 2000. His style was dreamlike and unique, expressed through richly referenced garments and shows that were always grandiose, sometimes even morbid. With panache, Sarah Burton, one of his closest collaborators, took up the torch.
Now, let's make way for McGirr, 35. Just as Lee Alexander McQueen did, McGirr graduated from Central Saint Martins School, in 2014 with a master of arts in fashion. Up until recently, he was one of Jonathan Anderson's right-hand men, overseeing the men's and women's collections at the JW Anderson brand in London. He has also previously worked for Dries Van Noten and Burberry and cut his teeth at Uniqlo, on the U line under Christophe Lemaire.
McGirr has joined the Kering Group's roster of creative directors, which include Anthony Vaccarello at Saint Laurent, Matthieu Blazy at Bottega Veneta and Sabato de Sarno at Gucci. It’s notable that the profile of de Sarno, who was hired at the beginning of the year, isn’t that different from McGirr's. He too had remained in the shadow of another high-profile designer at Valentino, Pierpaolo Piccioli, until his appointment. Kering is once again opting to hire an unproven second-stringer rather than poaching a seasoned designer from the competition.
Gianfilippo Testa, managing director of Alexander McQueen said, "We are delighted to welcome Seán McGirr as creative director. With his experience, personality and creative energy, he will bring a powerful creative language to Alexander McQueen while building on its unique heritage." McQueen's legacy is long, aesthetically strong and emotionally charged, so the task will not be easy. Burton, who followed in McQueen's footsteps, was embraced by his devotees. The arrival of a new designer with no historical or emotional connection to McQueen will no doubt disappoint some of his faithful fans.
Currently, McGirr's first collection for the brand has not been announced, but it is likely to take place during the Autumn-Winter 2024-2025 collections in Paris in February.
Translation of an original article published in French on lemonde.fr; the publisher may only be liable for the French version.