Over the years, the Cours d'Estienne-d'Orves, a vast pedestrian square in the heart of Marseille, had lost some of its luster, with afficionados preferring to frequent the bars and restaurants of nearby Rue Sainte, which climbs towards the Saint-Victor abbey. But three Marseillais "minots" as they are called, came up with the idea of a taste buds tingling gourmet food hall, in place of the old Buffalo Grill, which closed six years ago. "Other than the Arnavaux market – a sort of Rungis – Marseille didn't have a covered food market," said Julien Fabre. "For our perfect covered market, we called on our favorite artisans and put together a package offering delicacies from all over the Mediterranean."
Last summer, twelve food boutiques set up in a space of 2,000 square meters offering meals and snacks that can be eaten at the counter or on the spacious, open-air terrace. The decorator Olympe Zographos, inspired by the traditional pestle and mortar of Mediterranean cuisine, has dressed the area in Sardinian stone and olive wood or oak. In the morning, you can enjoy an espresso at the Bar Central, follozed by a plate of shawarma, hummus and tabouleh for lunch at La Vallée du Liban, which also operates on the Corniche Kennedy. La Serre, is a gourmet vegetarian boutique that offers, among other things, focaccia with dried tomato pesto and basil ricotta. The 500 Degrés pizzeria is extremely popular and boasts a huge, faceted oven made in Naples. And in Les Grandes Halles you will find tapas; a rotisserie; an Italian trattoria; a wine bar and "we even have an oyster bar," the entrepreneur said. "The oysters come from the Camargue or the Thau lagoon, which the oyster seller will open for you. And you can also order sea urchins or razor clams in parsley sauce."
And if the aromas in the Grandes Halles inspire you to cook at home, you only have to cross Rue Euthymènes overlooking the Old Port, to enter the market. "Within the stone walls and 17th century structure of this former rope factory, you will find the best artisanal products: Coquillettes & Fusilli for fresh pasta; the Corsican grocer Ribella and the traiteur Raphael Chiappero, formerly a charcutier (pork specialist) in Aix-en-Provence. These young businesspeople are passionate about their professions." To eat well in Marseille, just head for the old port.
Les Grandes Halles du Vieux-Port are open daily, from 9 am to midnight (Fridays and Saturdays until 2 am). The market is open from Tuesday morning to Sunday afternoon, from 9:30 am to 2 pm and from 4:30 to 8:30 pm. 30A, Cours Honoré-d'Estienne-d'Orves, Marseille 1er.
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