When people picture Holland, they typically see wooden shoes and windmills, fields filled with row upon row of colorful tulips, and networks of little canals fronted by handsome brick homes. But you won’t find many of these things in Rotterdam.

This second-largest city in the Netherlands defies all stereotypes. Rotterdammers walk to their own beat—one much different from what you’ll find in more-visited Amsterdam, just to the north. Bombed heavily and then rebuilt after the Second World War, it is modern and dynamic—a city where the history is happening right now. A single day isn’t long for exploring, but here’s our guide to experiencing the best of Rotterdam in 24 hours.

Arrival

When flying here, passengers have a choice. The closest entry point is Rotterdam The Hague Airport (RTM). However, this is a relatively small airport, handling mostly low-cost airlines and a very small handful of flag carriers. Those traveling from North America will land at Amsterdam’s Schiphol Airport (AMS). It’s not only the country’s main hub, home to KLM, the famed national airline—it was also Europe’s fourth-busiest airport last year.