The fifth-largest island in the Mediterranean, Crete could be its own country. And in many ways, ranging from cultural to culinary and beyond, the biggest of the Greek islands is a place apart from the rest of this ancient nation. Kritikoi—or Cretans—enjoy a distinct identity and proud history.

This is a place where history is layered. “We have seen many, many empires,” a guide told me on a recent visit. And he reeled them off: Venetians, Byzantines, Ottomans, Romans, and more.