Why the Germans are falling out of love with beer
In the land of biergartens and Oktoberfest, Helles increasingly for other people
SUMMON THE idea of the German at play, and chances are you see a rosy-cheeked Lederhosen- or Dirndl-clad youngster bearing half a dozen overflowing steins of beer. Never mind that—as the rest of Germany will hasten to remind you—you have taken Bavaria as a synecdoche for the entire country. The real problem with this image is that Germans are losing their taste for the tipple that once defined them.
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This article appeared in the Europe section of the print edition under the headline “Helles for other people”
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