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The Economist
The Economist
12 Dec 2024


NextImg:The Polish restaurants that dare to be dairy
Europe | Why buy the cow

The Polish restaurants that dare to be dairy

Milk bars, a working-class Warsaw tradition, are adapting to the future

|Warsaw

AT LUNCHTIME the Prasowy milk bar in central Warsaw is a portrait of Polish society. Grey-suited officials from nearby ministries queue up alongside students anxious to slurp down a bowl of tomato soup before the bell calls them back to school. Young professionals carve into crisp potato pancakes and rainbow salads. Elderly customers linger at remote tables over lonely plates of pierogi (dumplings).

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This article appeared in the Europe section of the print edition under the headline “When the local joint is a milk bar”

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