Pressed against a hill in Gloucestershire, in south-west England, on Bank Holiday Monday, the crowd knows exactly what it wants. “Cheese! Cheese! Cheese!” they chant. Soon they get their wish. A seven-pound Double Gloucester is flung downhill. Two dozen men throw themselves after it. They bounce, slide and tumble down a slope as steep as a ski run. The winner gets the cheese, and only a mild concussion.