Zipping over lava fields and fjords, the Icelandic coastguard were putting a chopper crew through its paces. The coastguard, which Iceland relies on instead of an army, does everything from rescuing wayward tourists to protecting undersea cables from sabotage. But they are starting to feel a bit overstretched. “Three helicopters, two ships and one aeroplane is not enough,” sulks one officer after dropping off a colleague next to a steaming volcano.