How a Spanish province became the world’s truffle leader
Teruel has replaced France’s Périgord atop the mushroom charts
AS A CHILD, Manolo Doñate often saw strange men with dogs in the mountains near his house in Sarrión, a town in the Teruel province of Aragón. They were hunting the abundant wild truffles. In the 1980s, while visiting a plantation in France, he decided to become the first in Teruel to cultivate truffle-producing oak trees.
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This article appeared in the Europe section of the print edition under the headline “The fungus is just starting”
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