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By Chaya Milchtein Published February 22, 2025 12:00PM (EST) Updated Februa


NextImg:From taco tours to Michelin stars: A love letter to Mexico City

With everything happening in the United States — particularly the rampant xenophobia, from the highest levels of government to random Instagram commenters — now feels like the perfect time to celebrate all things Mexico. And in this case, specifically, Mexico City.

I first visited Mexico City just after getting engaged to my now-wife, Jodyann Morgan. We had such an incredible time that it’s remained high on our list of cities to return to. So when a trip to Peru fell through the day before our departure, we booked tickets to Mexico City without hesitation. No plan, no hotel, no reservations — just excitement to be back. Then, earlier this year, we returned for a third visit to celebrate my 30th birthday. Suffice it to say, we love CDMX.

As the largest city in North America and the fifth-largest metropolitan area in the world, Mexico City is vast, vibrant, and full of life. Yet, every time I rave about it, I inevitably get asked the same question: But is it safe? According to Answer the Public, “mexico city is it safe” is searched in the U.S. 12,100 times a month. And here’s my answer: I have never felt unsafe, unwelcome, or afraid in Mexico City. I’ve wandered solo with no destination in mind, strolled hand-in-hand with my wife for hours, and marveled at how many queer couples openly express affection here—more than we ever saw in New York City.

My advice for new visitors? Drop any preconceived notions about the city and its people. You are a guest in their home. If you don’t speak Spanish, that’s on you — not on the hardworking people doing their best to serve you. As in any major city, stay aware of your surroundings: keep your phone tucked away while walking, secure your bag (a fanny pack works great), be mindful at ATMs, avoid carrying large amounts of cash and consider leaving your passport in the hotel safe, keeping only a copy on you. Most importantly, treat everyone you encounter with kindness and respect — you’ll likely have an unforgettable experience in return.

Mexico City offers endless food, culture and adventure for every budget, from backpacker-friendly hostels to luxury accommodations, from street tacos to Michelin-starred dining. Over three trips spanning six years and 25 days, I’ve barely scratched the surface, but I do have some favorite spots and insights to share. This isn’t a comprehensive guide — just a highlight reel of my experiences in one of my favorite cities.

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Las Alcobas

Don’t let the unassuming facade of Las Alcobas fool you — this Polanco gem is pure luxury. Nestled in one of Mexico City’s wealthiest and most walkable neighborhoods, it offers a home base that feels both elegant and effortless. Polanco itself buzzes with high-end shopping, top-tier restaurants, and a Rodeo Drive-like atmosphere, making it a prime spot for both indulgence and exploration.

Step inside, and you’re greeted by a stunning six-level spiral staircase backed by a tranquil waterfall—a fitting introduction to the hotel’s refined aesthetic. With just 35 rooms, Las Alcobas delivers an intimate, boutique experience packed with thoughtful luxuries. Expect impeccable service, plush beds, and oversized bathrooms, plus butler service that will press your clothes and draw you a complimentary bath. The details elevate the stay even further: fresh-cut flowers, a bidet with a heated toilet seat, and a selection of complimentary Mexican snacks and non-alcoholic beverages await in your room.

After a long day of exploring, take advantage of the butler-drawn bath to unwind. If time allows, book a massage at the in-house spa — your robe and slippers will be delivered to your room before an experience designed for peak relaxation.

Squish Factor: The bathroom has a European-style water closet, but it’s a bit larger than many others I’ve seen. The bidet also helps make it more comfortable and accessible. The robes we received from the spa were too small, so I just wore a dress to the massage.

Live Aqua Urban Resort México

The second time I headed to Mexico City, I had less than a day to plan and no hotel booked. It wasn’t until an hour before my flight — sitting at the airport — that I finally started looking. That’s when I stumbled across Live Aqua Urban Resort. With glowing reviews, a budget-friendly price and the promise of a luxury experience, it felt like the perfect choice. After a disappointing hotel stay on our last visit, I wasn’t taking any chances.

And Live Aqua did not disappoint. From the moment we walked in, the air was filled with the hotel’s signature scent — a mix of peace and calm. Bubbling waterfalls and sleek, modern decor set the tone for a relaxing stay. Check-in was seamless, and the concierge even secured us last-minute dinner reservations at La Popular (more on that later).

Our room was spacious and thoughtfully designed, with a bed so comfortable it was nearly impossible to leave. The massive bathroom featured a deep soaking tub, a walk-in shower big enough for two (or even three), and a double vanity that made getting ready side by side effortless.

Expert tip: Mexico City is full of incredible food, so skip the in-house breakfast and restaurant.

While the hotel is fantastic, the spa stood out above all else. We enjoy the water therapy pools an hour before our appointment with a glass of champagne. The massage itself was perfection. We added a scrub to the end of the massage, which was rubbed all over our bodies before we were led to the showers. We left with glowing skin and so, so relaxed. Make sure that you make a reservation in advance if you have a tight itinerary. The spa fills up. 

Squish factor: The spa did not have robes that fit me, but they did have massive towels that wrapped all the way around me with a little extra to spare. 

Outside hotel (Carlos Ratti )St Regis

It's hard to miss the towering St. Regis on Reforma, even if you aren’t staying there. From the moment you step up to the entrance, the glamour, luxury, and impeccable service that define the St. Regis brand are on full display. Your suitcases are whisked away before you even cross the threshold, only to reappear in your room after check-in.

And the room! We stayed in an executive suite, complete with a separate seating area, floor-to-ceiling windows that invite you to soak in the city views, a sprawling bathroom, and a bed so perfect it felt designed for post-adventure recovery. Our eighth-floor room, however, happened to be level with a nearby construction project. From sunrise to sunset, dozens of workers had a direct view into our windows, forcing us to keep the curtains drawn for privacy. Not ideal, but in a major city, ongoing construction is inevitable—and hardly the hotel’s fault.

Reforma itself is a dream for walkers, lined with trees that give the bustling avenue an urban park feel. Both Roma and Condesa are an easy (and beautiful) stroll from the St. Regis, making the location hard to beat.

No matter where you are in the hotel, stunning city views are guaranteed. Diana, the hotel’s Mexican cuisine restaurant, is no exception. Breakfast and dinner were lovely, though in a city brimming with unforgettable food at every price point, I generally prefer to dine beyond my hotel walls. Afternoon Tea, however, didn’t quite meet the high standards of a proper tea service (if you know, you know). The dessert bites were the unexpected highlight, but I wouldn’t go out of my way to do it again.

One thing you shouldn’t skip? The hot tubs — or the pool, if that’s more your speed. Perched on the top floor, they offer breathtaking views through massive windows. It’s a gorgeous spot any time of day, but at night, with the city lights twinkling below, it becomes truly magical — a definite highlight of our stay at the St. Regis.

Squish factor: I bragged about the towels fitting me the first time I stayed at a St Regis, but unfortunately, this location doesn’t live up to that experience. Additionally, it has a European style water closet (without a bidet) that works, but isn't roomy. 

Alexander Hotel

I’ve stayed at six different hotels in Mexico City, including some of the city’s top luxury properties, and the Alexander Hotel is hands down my favorite. It’s a contemporary standout, unlike anything else in the city, and home to Mexico’s first Caviar Bar.

Stepping off the elevator, you’re immediately in the spacious Caviar Bar—more of an upscale lounge than a traditional restaurant—with a small reception desk tucked off to the side. The hotel’s 24 rooms are spread across two floors of a striking trapezoid-shaped building designed by Torre Virreyes. Somehow, the space manages to feel both moody and bathed in light at the same time.

Our standard Chapultepec Park View Suite was absolutely massive, with floor-to-ceiling windows and an equally expansive glass-walled bathroom. Every detail was meticulously curated—Poltrona Frau furniture, Byredo bathroom amenities, a Lutron lighting system, and a Bang & Olufsen sound system, to name a few. Just a note: since the bathroom is glass-walled, you'll want to draw the curtains at night unless you’re in the mood for an accidental performance.

Unfortunately, our otherwise exceptional stay took an unexpected turn about a week after checkout. Through the hotel’s publicist (who had arranged our complimentary stay), I was informed of a surprise $300 cleaning fee for allegedly smoking in the room—something I simply didn’t do. Despite the room being cleaned at 6 p.m. the night before checkout with no issues raised at the time, no amount of defending myself changed their stance. It was a disappointing end to an otherwise incredible experience.

That said, I wouldn’t let this deter you from staying at the Alexander Hotel. Just take a quick video of the room before leaving and ask for a walkthrough at checkout to ensure there are no surprises later.

Expert tip: If you’re grabbing breakfast at the hotel, ask for an omelet with cheese. Easily the best I’ve had in a long time.

Don’t let the brevity of this list fool you! There are so many incredible places to eat in Mexico City. I haven’t kept track of most of the street carts and lunch spots we’ve enjoyed, mainly because we just bump into them while walking the city. The restaurants (and food tours) below are primarily special occasions, Michelin stars and fine dining establishments. 

La Popular Taqueria

Our second trip to Mexico City was completely unplanned — we booked a hotel just hours before our flight. After nearly an hour and a half battling dense city traffic, we arrived at the hotel absolutely starving. The concierge recommended La Popular, a taqueria just two blocks away, and we didn’t hesitate.

Tucked inside a small shopping center, La Popular isn’t immediately obvious. You take an elevator downstairs before stepping into a dimly lit restaurant with music so loud it feels like a club. The energy is high, the service is excellent, and the drinks? Strong and delicious.

And the food? It was really, really good. La Popular starts you off with at least seven different salsas—perfect for dipping tortilla chips or layering onto every bite. We ordered generously (hunger makes for ambitious choices), but the standout was the carnitas costra. A staple in Mexico City, this taco starts with a flour tortilla grilled with cheese until it forms a perfectly crispy, crunchy crust, then gets stuffed with unbelievably tender carnitas.

A must-order, no question.

Los Comales de Villa

Los Comales de Villa was one of those restaurants we stumbled upon while strolling through Polanco. It features a beautiful open kitchen and strictly outdoor seating in a patio-like setting. On our first day of the trip, we were starving and decided to go to the first restaurant that looked good — and we definitely picked the right one. Over the course of the rest of the trip, we kept talking about returning, but unfortunately, we never found the time. Our favorite dishes included a skirt steak taco and a grilled avocado taco, both topped with crispy, crunchy grilled cheese (look for costras if this concept sounds appealing). We also loved the baby corn elote.

Lorea

After more than a decade working in top Michelin-starred restaurants across Europe, Chef Oswaldo Oliva returned to Mexico City to open Lorea. Located in a townhouse in Roma Norte, the unassuming exterior hides the incredible restaurant within. From a kitchen visible across the dining room, Lorea offers a menu that highlights local produce and seasonal ingredients at their peak. You can choose between an 8-course tasting menu, served at the chef’s counter or in the dining room, or an à la carte menu, available only in the dining room. As fans of tasting menus, we indulged by sitting at the chef’s counter. The food was absolutely fantastic, with the standout course being a taco filled with huitlacoche (corn fungus), which delivered the most incredible flavor bomb.

Taco Food Tour

Whether it’s your first or tenth time in Mexico City, a food tour should be on your agenda. We took the Taco Treasures of Mexico tour with Rocío, and it was nothing short of fantastic. Rocío guided us to four different taquerías, sharing stories about the history, culture, and people as we walked from one spot to the next. She explained the history of each taco, like the El Pastor taco, which was created by Lebanese immigrants who adapted traditional shawarma techniques to local tastes. All the tacos we tried were fantastic! While many taco tours include alcohol, this one does not, which is my preference. We took the tour for lunch on my birthday, and it was definitely worth it.

Pujol

I had heard a lot about Pujol before my first visit to Mexico City. As a sucker for a good tasting menu, especially one with such high praise, it was the first reservation I made. Pujol definitely lives up to the hype. When the Michelin Guide finally came to CDMX last year, it awarded the restaurant, with chef-owner Enrique Olvera at the helm, two Michelin stars. The tasting menu highlights seasonal, local ingredients while honoring Mexican techniques and cooking through a contemporary lens. There wasn’t a single bite I didn’t enjoy, from the baby corn with ant larvae to the mole Chef Olvera is known for. Don’t be discouraged if you didn’t make a reservation far in advance (though it’s definitely recommended). If you're flexible and check the website often, you’ll likely secure a spot. I booked a 9:30 p.m. reservation for my 30th birthday the night before.

Nobu

If you’ve always wanted to dine at Nobu, the Mexico City location offers an enticing alternative. Not only is it easier to secure a reservation, but dining here is also significantly more affordable compared to the Nobu in Las Vegas, making it a great option for those looking to enjoy the experience at a more accessible price point. There are two locations: one in the same building as the Live Aqua Urban Resort and the other in Polanco, both offering excellent experiences. The extensive Japanese menu features sushi, sashimi, and signature dishes like mirin-marinated Miso Black Cod, along with items that nod to Mexican cuisine, such as mini tacos stuffed with raw tuna. If you’re a fan of tasting menus, Nobu’s omakase provides a chance to sample a little bit of everything. And don’t forget to save room for dessert — it’s exceptional.

Photoshoot

The first time I visited Mexico City, I booked a photoshoot with Carlos Ratti. I didn’t have high expectations, I must admit, but frankly, Carlos is an absolute pro and a joy to shoot with. He has a way with his camera, light, and storytelling that’s enviable. Since then, we’ve booked a shoot with Carlos whenever we return to the city. If you are visiting, booking a shoot with Carlos will allow you to memorialize your visit and frankly get you some of the best photos you’ve ever had of yourself. 

Traditional Jamaican Cooking Class

Morgan is Jamaican, so when I found a Jamaican cooking class on Viator, I knew I had to take her. And I’m so glad I did—Theresa, the food, and the class were the highlight of our third trip to CDMX earlier this year. Theresa welcomed us into her home and prepared a feast for us to cook together. Both of us are pretty experienced in the kitchen (and arguably foodies), so we requested specific dishes in advance, focusing mostly on my wife’s comfort foods: curry goat, aki and saltfish, plantains, and rice and peas. It felt like cooking with a friend. We chattered nonstop, teased each other, and enjoyed learning and cooking together before sitting down to dinner with our host and her husband. The food was incredible, and the company even better. This out-of-the-box cooking experience is a must if you’re visiting (or living in) the area.

Churros (Jodyann Morgan )Churros Masterclass

If you like desserts, meeting other travelers, and learning about Mexican desserts, you’ll love this churros class. From the same team that hosts a life-changing coffee tasting in CDMX, this class is so much fun! You’ll make a jalapeno and chocolate ganache to dip the churros. Take notes because it was incredible! I have to make it again. Then, we made Cafe de Olla with cinnamon sticks, dark brown cane sugar, and orange peels. While this simmers, you’ll dive headfirst into making churros. 

We learned how to make circles, spirals, hearts and designs as we rapidly cooked up an enormous pile of churros! Then came the best part, where we enjoyed the churros, chocolate ganache, and cafe de olla and compared notes with the group about their favorite experiences in the city and their plans for the rest of the trip. We loved this experience so much that we booked it again on our last trip.

Cooking Class in the Forest

I love taking cooking classes when I’m traveling, and they are all memorable, but this one was extraordinary. It’s a full-day experience, starting with a visit to a local market before heading into the mountains of the Los Dinamos National Park, home to the famous Magdalena River. After the hustle and bustle of the city, it’s a relief to spend some time in nature without your phone. There, in a family owned restaurant without running water or electricity, you’ll learn how to cook a slew of Mexican food. You’ll make two different salsas and tortillas and even fish for your trout on their on-site fish farm.

The final result is an indulgent meal with your host, memories, and skills to last a lifetime.

Squish factor: The bathrooms are a bit of a hike from the restaurant. There are steps to enter the restaurant and the market. The chairs are a bit rickety, but you don’t spend a lot of time sitting, and a few were a bit better.

Xochimilco Trajinera Float

Xochimilco, a borough of Mexico City, is home to the last remaining canals from the once-extensive lake and waterway system that covered the Valley of Mexico before Spanish colonization. Now a UNESCO World Heritage Site, it has become a lively hub for celebrations and tourism, with its iconic colorful trajineras (traditional wooden boats), mariachi bands, floating food vendors, and more. If you’re visiting, be sure to take a ride on a trajinera to soak in the atmosphere. This tour on GetYourGuide included unlimited tequila, mezcal, and beer, a hands-on guacamole-making session where we customized it to our tastes, and even the chance to hire a mariachi band for a few songs.

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