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Salon
Salon
25 Apr 2025
By Michael La Corte Deputy Food Editor Published April 25, 2025 2:00PM (EDT)


NextImg:As the weather warms, you should be making pesto

"April showers" has been a bit of a misnomer in my area lately. I love a good torrential spring downpour, so I’ve felt a little cheated. But the sunshine and warmth that have taken its place? It's hard to complain about that.

As temperatures rise, there's one particular sauce that embodies the brightness, promise and ease of spring-into-summer: pesto.

Pesto is raw, vegetarian and endlessly versatile—but it delivers big flavor. Every ingredient adds something essential: garlic for punch, cheese for salinity, herbs for color and base flavor, nuts for richness, oil for body. There’s nothing extra, nothing showy: just the perfect balance. Toss it with hot pasta and you’ve got one of Italian cuisine’s most iconic, satisfying dishes.

In a 2011 Saveur piece, Laura Schenone called pesto "the uncooked, economical pride of Liguria" — a sauce born of poverty and a reliance on gathered greens. Its name comes from the Italian word pestare, meaning "to pound." Traditionally, pesto was made using a mortar and pestle, though a blender or food processor gets the job done just fine today.

Classic pesto alla Genovese calls for basil, Parmigiano-Reggiano, pine nuts, olive oil, garlic and salt (but go easy—Parmesan is salty on its own). Both Cathy Whims, in her excellent new cookbook "The Italian Summer Kitchen," and New York Times columnist Martha Rose Shulman recommend blanching basil before blending to preserve its vibrant color. It's an optional step, but worth considering if you're chasing that vivid, spring-green hue.

That said, why stop at basil? Spring is bursting with flavor-packed herbs and greens, and pesto is one of the best ways to use them. Try:

Don’t limit yourself to just greens, either. Zucchini and artichokes make wonderful bases. Some pestos throughout Italy also lean more toward a romesco-style sauce, using tomatoes or roasted peppers with nary a green in sight.

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Pesto also plays well with dietary needs. Going vegan? Skip the cheese. Nut allergy? Use seeds or a nut-free oil. This sauce is meant to flex with you.

Pesto is a lot more than a pasta sauce. A few of my favorite ways to use it:

And yes, some people even find ways to use pesto in desserts. (Don’t knock it until you try a tiny swipe alongside a slice of ricotta cheesecake.)

Of course, there's an inherent freshness within pesto that makes it a perfect kick-off of the bright promise of spring and a way to shed the heavy, laden dishes of winter. So this spring, there’s no better kitchen reset than a big bowl of green.

Let pesto be your excuse to cook without a recipe — and eat with abandon.

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