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NYTimes
New York Times
16 Feb 2024
Simbarashe Cha


NextImg:When Getting Dressed Is a Higher Calling

Outwardly, this season’s New York Fashion Week shows followed a familiar playbook. Marc Jacobs showed his collection before the week technically began. The official schedule ran for six days (albeit with fewer events) and it played the hits: Carolina Herrera, Michael Kors, Tory Burch.

All of this brought a calm to a week that can sometimes be anything but. That calm extended to the streets outside shows, which drew smaller crowds with a relaxed energy. (Some rainy and snowy days surely played a part.) This laid-back attitude permeated people’s clothes, many of which were in neutral shades and worn with effortless elegance. The style outside also suggested that fur — including faux and secondhand — is having a renaissance, even among the most principled followers of fashion.

As the week bore on, there were moments when it felt a little too easy. Some seasons have so many shows or presentations that it’s hard to stop and breathe. While not always manageable, it gives the sense that people are working — hard. When a fashion week is as calm as the latest was in New York, you start to wonder if a lot of people who might have been there offering inspiration in and outside of shows were elsewhere, doing neither.

ImageA person standing in a crowded street. The person has short reddish brown hair and is wearing a tan trench coat over a nude shredded crop top and low-slung olive-colored pants that reveal the waistline of a white garment beneath them.
Shredded fabric made the crop top seem more masculine.
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Clear frames and neutral chiffon tied together by a natural glow.
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Bundled up, but also revealing — and edgy, with the lace socks.
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Winter clothes look even better in wintry weather.
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The trapper hat had the type of presence that stops people in their tracks.
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Channeling road punk with multiple plaids, a cat-eared beanie and leather boots.
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An impressive array of boot straps.
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Going for a big visual impact? Go chrome.
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A printed bandana drew attention to the bantu knots.
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The poufy hat, left, and denim blended well with the cloudy blue sky.
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Two-toned pants that evoked peeling a banana, or an animal shedding its skin.
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This patchwork denim could pass as either pants or a skirt.
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A slightly asymmetrical knit with a little drama and a lot of character.
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Did you notice the optical illusion created by the bag and skirt?
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This combination of exaggerated shoulders, a cinched waist and a tapered skirt looked like a fashion sketch come to life.
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In that balaclava there was no chance of getting lost in a crowd.
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A look full of intricate details, from the skirt’s two-button waist, to its double-zipper slit, to the symmetric tattoo.
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Stacked black buttons elongated the legs of the suit.
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Arm warmers were a popular accessory. This pair gave some oomph to the mini dress.
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An icy cool mélange of sheer white skirt, pale blue ribbons and Tabi boots.
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Chunky heels and long braids finished this off-the-shoulder look.
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And chunky heels and Marcel waves completed this one.
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Tight curls and shaggy fur.
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A breeze put those black ribbons to work.
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Fuzzy, fitted, fabulous. 
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Bright accessories broke up the neutral tones.
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The reptile-skin accordion purse made the outfit.
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A fairy-tale ensemble that made you wonder if the phone was being used to call a chariot instead of a car.
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An invigorating mash-up of vibrant jewel tones.