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NYTimes
New York Times
23 Sep 2023
https://www.nytimes.com/by/molly-young


NextImg:They Came, They Shaped, They Shredded

The coffee table book is the rare genre defined not only by content but by destination. Sure, not all of these oversized tomes wind up marooned beside a scented candle in someone’s living room — some make it all the way to hotel lobbies and the waiting rooms of cosmetic dentistry practices. I’ve seen volumes on Panama hats, rattan and a mall in Dubai — worthy topics of study, surely, but perhaps not majestic enough to merit the heft of the format.

Jimmy Metyko’s SHAPING SURF HISTORY (Rizzoli, $55) is, though sneakily. The book maps only a narrow portion of the surfing genome, collecting photos taken by one man over four years, of a small group of subjects over a limited stretch of California coastline. But what a scene to witness.

ImageA photo of a man walking on the beach holding a broken surfboard in each hand. His wetsuit is pulled down to expose his torso.
You win some, you lose some, you break some. The surfer Sam George with a pair of casualties.Credit...Jimmy Metyko

When Metyko arrived in Santa Barbara in 1979, he met Al Merrick and Tom Curren — surf’s equivalent of C.S. Lewis and J.R.R. Tolkien: talented friends whose collaboration eternally jolted the course of their trade. At the time, Merrick was an innovative board maker and Curren a spookily skilled surfer; Merrick devised the equipment and Curren tested its limits. And Metyko? He was there to capture the results.

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There’s nothing like the smell of wet neoprene sizzling on a hot car. Although jewel-toned surf gear has fallen out of favor in recent decades, this image makes a powerful argument for a Byzantine palette revival. The surfers Steve Morris (right), his brother Willy (center) and Dino Bartoli (left) wait for low tide in Steve’s 1967 Buick Skylark.Credit...Jimmy Metyko

Hailing from Texas, the photographer may as well have been from Jupiter. But the images herein, ranging from the experimental to the drool-worthy, argue that no one was better poised to cherish Santa Barbara’s wavescape (and its devoted suitors) than an outsider raised on fickle Gulf Coast offerings.

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The surfer Jamie Brisick demonstrates the “sound of one hand clapping” koan.Credit...Jimmy Metyko
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Herman Melville wrote, “It is better to fail in originality, than to succeed in imitation.” He wasn’t referring to this pre-Van-Life specimen of automotive innovation, but he could have been.Credit...Jimmy Metyko

Essays by Jamie Brisick and Sam George, writer-surfers who were on the beach with Merrick and Curren, succinctly tee up Metyko’s images, which make a case for surfing as the most photogenic of sports. Beautiful bodies in beautiful motion in the world’s most beautiful medium: How could it be otherwise?

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Tom Curren muses on the possibilities of a brand-new board from Al Merrick. Just add water.Credit...Jimmy Metyko
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A crowd looks on with awe and trepidation as a great white shark gears up for a ride on a flatbed truck.Credit...Jimmy Metyko
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Curren contemplates hydrodynamics from a unique angle.Credit...Jimmy Metyko
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The influential boardsmith Al Merrick is pictured with a shred sled that would soon find its way beneath the feet of some local hot dogger. Merrick is also responsible for the boards used by Kelly Slater in each of his 11 world championships.Credit...Jimmy Metyko