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NYTimes
New York Times
13 Feb 2025
Simbarashe Cha


NextImg:New York Fashion Week Street Style: Quiet Luxury Is Dead

Quiet luxury is dead. That refrain has already emerged as a potent theme of this fashion month, which kicked off last week with New York Fashion Week. The clothes worn on and off runways suggested that, after a long-held fascination with subdued attire, people are craving something more exquisite.

Amid the usual sea of wintry blacks, grays and layers outside shows, there was also a healthy amount of snakeskin and animal (mostly leopard) prints. The most lavish versions, if not real, could have easily been mistaken as natural. The same could not be said for the exaggerated silhouettes of models in certain flamboyantly proportioned garments on the runway — big, baggy Coach trousers, for example, or a Fforme coat with elongated arms.

Another sign of shifting tastes was the abundance of fur. More inescapable than in seasons past, its heavy presence was notable given how many people and brands have professed an aversion to the material. Some who noticed the uptick saw it as motivated by more than style trends: I heard people musing that, with all going on in the world right now, wearing fur might be the last thing people are worried about.

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Beads injected pops of color into an earth-toned ensemble.
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An outfit with an Army green peacoat and utilitarian cargo pants had traces of military style.
ImageA group of people stand wearing various coats. The person in the center wears a long black duster, and the person to the left wears a similar style in camel. The two people closest to the camera, seen only partially, wear a trench coat (left) and a leather jacket (right).
How many coats do you see?
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One of the reasons why Nick Wooster is a street style influencer in New York: He knows how to look cool even when bundled up.
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Swaddled from the neck down, Gwenyth Paltrow, left, cut an almost anonymous figure outside the Calvin Klein show.
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Coach was among the labels that showed animal prints on the runway …
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… and Linda Fargo of Bergdorf Goodman was among the people who wore them on the street.
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Cruella de Vil’s spotted coat came to mind.
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Outerwear both shaggy and sublime.
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Between them, there were basically pearls from head to toe.
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At the Meruert Tolegen show, a knotty hooded sweater was styled with an asymmetric poufy skirt.
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It’s not unusual for designers to feature wedding dresses in their shows. But Collina Strada subverted convention by sending two brides down the runway.
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A seductively swishy look at Fforme.
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At the Michael Kors show, casually elegant items like this breezy dress were juxtaposed with an industrial setting.
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Outside the Coach show, a person in snakeskin turned heads while slithering through the crowd.
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Sometimes fur came in small doses, like on the trim of a bag or a pair of gloves.
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Other furs, like this hulking coat, were impossible to ignore.
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This coat’s soft shape contrasted nicely with that of the pleated skirt.
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Colorful creatures — human and otherwise — are part of the fabric of fashion week.
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Diotima’s show mixed romantic clothes with surrealist, lopsided furniture.
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A fringed, layered look from the Zankov show.
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Framed by a red door, a blue-and-white outfit appeared more patriotic.
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A jacket that appeared patriotic from a mile away.
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A leather trench paired with sequined suiting telegraphed an aesthetic that could be called “fashionable detective.”  
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Not a New York Marathon runner but an Eckhaus Latta model walking to the label’s show. 
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An eccentric denim jacket with a hard-to-find hemline.
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Chloe King of Neiman Marcus is another street style influencer who is known for bold choices, like layering crystals over leather and mixing prints.
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Judging by the number of cameras that were whipped out when this Carolina Herrera confection hit the runway, the ensemble won’t soon be forgotten.
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A delicate bow added a sculptural touch to a wide-brimmed hat.
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A pink bow made for a sweet surprise on the back of a vinyl jacket.