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NYTimes
New York Times
3 Oct 2024
Simbarashe Cha


NextImg:Give Them What They Want

One word to describe this fashion month would be “easy”: Scheduling New York felt uncomplicated; London finally took steps to update, with guests toning down a bit of the playfulness for a more mature sartorial palette; Milan did what it always does, which is emphasize its tailoring and shape in ways that were easy to digest; and then there’s Paris, a city that tops them all, and this season was no exception.

Instead of sticking to one or two specific trends, much of what was presented over the course of nine days felt like top-tier presentations. Flowy tulle in a girl gaze world? Try Chloé. Prefer a straitjacket look? Dior had you covered, no pun intended. How about a feathered T-shirt or camouflage shorts? Jonathan Anderson’s creations at Loewe left jaws on the floor. Even Stella McCartney seemed in an impressively jovial mood backstage.

The streets were especially easygoing, which is interesting given the sharp increase in celebrity appearances during fashion weeks. Although the actress Anya Taylor-Joy was nearly mobbed at Dior, Nicole Kidman arrived at Balenciaga to an astonishingly polite and warm reception. The actor Rob Lowe — who transitioned to Ms. McCartney’s Monday morning show from an appearance at a Ralph Lauren soiree the night before — was ever so cool. Does this point to what fashion week could look like in the future? One thing’s for sure: When everything is chill, everyone is chill.

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Single camera tracking shot inside the Louvre.CreditCredit...
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Nature’s blowout captured in every direction.
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Nicole Kidman in formation at Balenciaga.
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Now that’s knit!
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Triple denim at Acne Studios.
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Who says a collar can’t be an accessory?
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A little bow, a little lace, a lot of style.
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Pleats to please.
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Anya Taylor-Joy’s close-up at Dior.
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Spectators at Chloé, looking every which way.
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At Rick Owens, the focus was up top, where three angels dressed in black threw rose petals down below.
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Around and around they go at Luis de Javier.
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A happy waiting room with Greta Gerwig and Natalie Portman at Stella McCartney.
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Say yes to the shoulders at Stella McCartney.
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Everything but the tie on Damiano David.
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A warm glow in a human lightbox.CreditCredit...
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That’s the look.
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What caught her eye?
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The elegance of a back drape.
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Jordan Roth’s slick shoulder at Junya Watanabe.
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A little flip goes a long way at Loewe.
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Action, motion, gesture, shift at Comme des Garçons.
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A pink pouf at Stella McCartney.
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A sexy halo atop a balcony at Rick Owens.
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Chanel, from top to bottom.CreditCredit...
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Where the black buckles stop, the white coat begins.
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Two hands, many straps at Dior.
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A punk revival at Noir Kei Nimomiya.
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This way and that at Louis Vuitton.
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Tiffany Haddish brings the top light at Stella McCartney.
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A shock of Chanel.