


French haute cuisine is, officially, the best in the world again.
At least, that’s according to the judges of the Bocuse d’Or, a fine-dining competition held every two years. The last time the contest was held, in 2023, France did not even place in the top three.
“It’s a real pride to bring France to the top again,” Paul Marcon, the 29-year-old French chef who led the team that won gold, told reporters.
Mr. Marcon’s victory on Monday was also, for some, a victory for French cuisine itself.
The country reigned as the undisputed king of 20th-century European fine dining — even the word “gastronomy” itself comes from French. But Denmark, the seat of New Nordic cooking, has become something of the Hamlet of the 21st.
The Bocuse serves as an ideal place for an international culinary joust. Although there are many food contests, this one is widely seen as the true Olympic Games of high gastronomy.
“You have the Eurovision, and then you have the Bocuse d’Or,” Nina Bauer, a Danish food historian, said in a phone call, referring to an international song competition. “You become famous if you win them, and not just in your own professional circle — but all over the world.”