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NYTimes
New York Times
25 Sep 2024
Simbarashe Cha


NextImg:Conveying Confidence Through Clothing

The style on and off the runways at Milan Fashion Week has a self-assurance that can be particularly noticeable to those arriving straight from London Fashion Week, which turned 40 this year but has maintained a fledgling spirit.

It’s hardly a surprise to see great tailoring in Italy, and this season some of the best suits spotted on the streets of Milan had cuts that created sharp shapes as their wearers moved. There were other clothes with broad shoulders and poppy colors that evoked the fashion of the early MTV era. That boldness carried over to many accessories, particularly for the ears: There were loops, hoops, cuffs and climbers. Some earrings looked a little like weapons from a ninja’s arsenal; others resembled bunches of grapes.

On the runway many labels played with fringe, which trimmed skirts at Prada and protruded from sleeve cuffs at Jil Sander. Bottega Veneta showed elegant looks that mixed materials, and Marni — through prints, colors and silhouettes — imbued its clothes with the type of eclecticism that makes fashion fun.

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A striking pairing of stripes.
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Sharp points gave these abstract hoops a dangerous touch.
ImageA person standing on a street. The person has a shaved head and is wearing a gold ear cuff, a reddish fair isle sweater and matching shorts and over-the-knee black boots.
An exquisite example of how to dress for the start of “sweater weather.”
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Fiery hair that lit up with each glint of the gold jewelry.
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Channeling a futuristic elegance with wraparound shades and a sleek backswept bob.
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Novel elements of this ensemble included a chainmail headpiece.
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They offered modern interpretations of retro and sporty style.
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On the runway at Marni, graphic floral prints were paired with somewhat eerie bug-eye sunglasses.
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The lacy white shirt was a reminder of how some of the best Western-inspired outfits benefit from bucking convention.
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Styling a disco-era mini dress with Gen Z’s preferred sock style — crew — felt very of the moment.
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With long layered necklaces, a simple open-back dress became anything but.
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A cool mixture of icy accessories, a chest ink and frosted hair.
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The argyle on argyle exemplified power matching; the plaid on floral, power clashing.
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Loosely coordinated slip dresses and coats gave them the aura of a girl group.
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Sparkly fringe trimming brought a theatrical quality to this brat-green attire.
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A navy-and-white-striped sweater looked less nautical paired with a fringed skirt on the runway at Prada.
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Shredded denim covered the runway at the Diesel show, making it seem as if models were walking through a blue wasteland.
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At the Jil Sander show, fringe could be spotted peeking out of shirt sleeves.
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A face-off of like-shaped sunglasses.
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Members of the K-pop group Enhypen, in dark wools and ties, evoked autumnal Ivy League style.
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Traces of Valentine’s Day could be detected in these ensembles’ bright red and chocolate-brown palettes.
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Candy-apple-red pants brought out similarly colored stripes in the jacket.
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Few items punch up an outfit like a tomato-red scarf.
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The Bottega Veneta runway was awash in juxtaposed textures and materials.
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Fashion Week’s breakneck pace can make it seem like a glamorous blur.
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These looks shared earthy neutral tones and elongated sleeves.
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A strong rebuke to those who say you can’t wear white after Labor Day.