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Jun 17, 2025  |  
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John Branch


NextImg:A First Descent as the Klamath River Runs Free for the First Time in 100 Years

The remote and rugged Klamath River in Oregon and California, one of the mightiest in the American West and an ancient lifeline to Indigenous tribes, is running free again, mostly, for the first time in 100 years after the recent removal of four major dams.

At the burbling aquifer near Chiloquin, Ore., that is considered the headwaters, a sacred spot for native people, a group of kayakers, mostly Indigenous youth from the river’s vast basin began to paddle on Thursday. Ages 13 to 20, they had learned to kayak for this moment.

Stroke by stroke, mile by mile, day by day, they plan to reach the salty water of the rugged Northern California coast, more than 300 miles away, in mid-July.

ImageA kayaker paddling a pink kayak through turbulent rapids strewn with large rocks, with steep hills in the background.
A pair of sections of the Klamath that had been dry for decades, because of dams that diverted water, are flowing again. Native kayakers practiced on one of them ahead of the expedition.Credit...Max Whittaker for The New York Times
Image
The group of Indigenous kayakers, ages 13 to 20, represent six tribes along the Klamath River. Most of them had never been in a kayak before preparing for the expedition.Credit...Max Whittaker for The New York Times

If all goes as planned, the kayakers will pass the rehabilitated sites of the largest dam-removal project in U.S. history. They will pass salmon swimming upstream in places that the fish had not been able to reach since the early 1900s. They will pass through the ancient territory of their tribes — the Klamath, Shasta, Karuk, Hoopa Valley and Yurok among them.


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