“It’s one of my favourite things to eat,” said Amy Brandwein, chef and owner of Centrolina and Piccolina in Washington. “It’s delicious. It doesn’t take very long to cook. It’s easy to digest. You don’t have to go shopping for it.”

Spaghetti aglio e olio is the object of Brandwein’s affection, and it’s one of the most basic staples in an Italian kitchen. As the name suggests, it consists of just a handful of ingredients: spaghetti, olive oil, garlic, crushed red pepper flakes or a fresh chile, and parsley. But even with such a classic dish, different cooks offer various ways to achieve their ideal version.