My spouse, Grace, used to drive to Hudson, N.Y., a full hour from our house, to get their hair cut. To make the trip extra worth it, Grace would time the appointments to bring home a roast chicken from Kitty’s Market, an adorable cafe near the train station there that makes sensational rotisserie chicken.

Kitty’s simple menu includes not much beyond that chicken and some side dishes, including potatoes roasted in the chicken fat (YUM) and a napa cabbage Caesar salad. As much as I looked forward to the chicken and potatoes, the cabbage salad was always the most surprising and delightful thing in our takeout order. I had never had napa cabbage swapped out for romaine lettuce in a Caesar salad before, and I quickly came to appreciate how sturdy and crisp it was, and how well the cabbage stood up to the assertive dressing.