If you enjoy the tangy punch of quick-pickled vegetables as much as I do, the next time you want fish for dinner, make it escovitch-style, and while you are at it, use catfish for a change.

The Jamaican dish of spice-rubbed fish is served smothered with a sauté of sweet vegetables – onion, carrot and bell pepper – simmered briefly in vinegar, giving it a bright, “quickle” (quick pickle) effect. Although the vinegar is a defining element, the mixture is far from one-note – it is layered with heady and earthy flavours from Scotch bonnet (or habanero) pepper, thyme, garlic and ground allspice.