You may have heard of a trick involving freezing tofu that magically transforms it into something palatable.

I have some issues with that framing, namely that tofu requires any transformation whatsoever to taste great. Apologies to Billy Joel, but I love tofu just the way it is: clean and mild and able to fit in with the flavours of whatever dish it’s in. It’s the fresh mozzarella (or the boneless, skinless chicken breast, if that’s more your speed) of soy products. For nearly 2,000 years, Asian recipes have used this quality to demonstrate its versatility.