Every September, when fall starts to come into focus, I get jumpy. Stone fruit season is about to end! The good melons are almost gone! Have I eaten enough corn? Peppers? Tomatoes?

The answer is always no, but that’s the bittersweet thing about seasons: They’re special because they’re fleeting. Come July or August, when I taste the year’s first really good tomato (or peach or melon or cherry), I make it my mission to eat as many of them as possible. This new recipe – inspired by the salad of tomatoes, mozzarella and basil from Capri, but stuffed into a garlic bread bun and warmed until the cheese melts – is meant to carry us through the waning days of summer.